Uncorked: Salvatore Russo
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I’m Italian, and wine has always been a part of our culture. I remember when I was seven years old, a farmer came to my school with some grapes, and we all did some sorting and crushing. A few months later, he returned with some wine, and we tasted a small amount. This was in the 90s in southern Italy. I don’t think it would be allowed now.
Describe your wine list at Heliot Steak House
I’m actually in the process of changing the wine list to focus more on American wines. I plan to showcase various appellations in California, as well as Oregon and New York State. Being an American steakhouse gives me the freedom to explore these regions in depth.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
One of our guests once ordered a bottle of £2,600 Petrus thinking it was £26.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
I like the wine list at The Red Lion & Sun in Highgate as it offers incredible value. Another good wine list in a wine-oriented restaurant is Andrew Edmunds, and of course, Noble Rot in Soho.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Sergio De Luca, the Italian wine buyer from Enotria. He is an absolute legend, having been in the role for over 40 years, and is the most charming and humble person I’ve ever met.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is sometimes overlooked as Brunello and the Super Tuscans steal the show. However, Vino Nobile offers elegance and incredible value for money. I tried the Ausone from Poliziano the other day. I was blown away.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Fruity, oaky and smooth.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
We have a Château Margaux 2014 for £450, which is pretty much what we pay for it.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Chocolate and California Pinot Noir.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I hate it when the wine is not at the right temperature, especially red. When it does, I just ask for an ice bucket to chill the wine a bit and have a beer in the meantime. Win win.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I visited Seresin in New Zealand last year and spent a day with their viticulturist, Cameron Vawter. I loved his passion for farming, and his biodynamic practices are second to none. Their Pinots are absolutely fantastic.
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
What’s your favourite wine?
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Campania has one of the best terroirs in Italy, with great diversity. We have the sea, mountains, and even a volcano, and people have farmed their lands there for thousands of years. The knowledge of the land is second to none. However, for political reasons, their wines are not on the world stage like those from the north of the country.
It’s your last meal, and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I would choose my favourite pizza salsiccia and friarielli (sausage and Neapolitan broccoli) with a bottle of Taurasi as tribute to my origin.
