Uncorked: Sam Harrison
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I was very lucky to work for Rick Stein in my 20s. We had an incredible wine list at The Seafood Restaurant. Rick’s sister-in-law Ronnie was the sommelier and very kindly shared her passion with me. I was exposed to incredible wines that at that stage I had never experienced before.
Describe your wine lists at Sam’s Riverside and Sam’s Waterside
I always tell my guests that my lists are wines that I like to drink myself and make me smile. Whether our house wine at £29 our some serious Bordeaux at £400, I really believe they offer great value. These are wines that I am passionate about and often have a story behind them – either I have visited the winery or met the winemaker and they have become friends and dined at my restaurants, sharing the same passions and hospitalitiy values as me. I think a lot of wine lists in London are expensive and not very approachable. I want ours to be the polar opposite of this.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I dropped a bottle of £300 Burgundy when I worked at The Seafood Restaurant, and that was over 20 years ago (so would be worth a lot more now!). I will never ever forget the sinking feeling. Also, it went everywhere!
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
The Seafood in Padstow I still exceptional and shows their passion and energy for sourcing the very best. In London, I like the lists at Chez Bruce and 67 Pall Mall.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
James Ellis of Ellis Wines (a Richmond-based supplier). He has become a great friend and mentor on wine, with exceptional knowledge and a passion for sharing that knowledge.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I have become rather obsessed with South African Chenin Blancs. I love the depth of flavour.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Flabby, barnyard and lush.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Definitely our Chenin Blanc Sur Lie, Ladybird Estate, Stellenbosch - customers are always blown away when I get them to try it (the 2021 vintage is currently £52)
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Sushi and Riesling.
Old World or New World?
Having lived in Australia, and also having some South African blood, it will always be New World for me.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I am not a fan of pushy sommeliers. Why do they have to make wine so unapproachable? The experience should always be fun. After all, it’s just grapes in a glass!
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Peter-Allan Finlayson at Crystallum in South Africa. I have been lucky enough to spend time with him at his winery as well as host him in London. He is making some of the best New World Pinot Noir and Chardonnay available.
As a restaurateur, what question do you most get asked by customers?
‘Is your house wine good?’ I aways find this odd, but also know why. Often guests have had very poor experiences with house wine. The house wine should be a wine the owner is proud to drink and to serve, and is at an affordable price.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Alentejo in Portugal - delicious rich red wines. Wonderful blending of grapes and exceptional value for money.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I love Pinot Noir - I would ‘die’ for a bottle of Echezeaux Grand Cru.
