Book review: Hokkaido

Chef turned food writer Tim Anderson’s latest book is concerned with Japan’s northernmost island, which has a fascinating food culture that is distinct from the rest of the country. Part travelog, part cookbook, Hokkaido explains how the prefecture incorporates three foodways: European agricultural models; traditional and modern Japanese cuisine; and indigenous Ainu gastronomy.

The Ainu migrated centuries ago from Russia and have developed a diverse cuisine that is less reliant on fermented foods than that of the rest of Japan. Challenging ‘the persistent myth of Japanese monoculturalism’, Anderson starts the book with a series of recipes that would look very out of place if served in a Japanese restaurant on these shores including pumpkin mash with beans, sweetcorn and sikerpe berries; and pork knuckle soup with dried beans.

Hokkaido moves on to more familiar Japanese recipes including ramen, gyoza, chicken karaage, and tempura but most are given a regional twist. Hokkaido’s dessert section is focused on dairy-based sweets – the island is famed for the quality of its milk and dairy products - including fresh milk ice cream; milk purin (a steamed set custard); and a duo of intriguing cheesecake recipes.

As a chef that has pursued an interest in Japanese food for more than two decades – early on his career he was awarded a research grant to study local foods in Japan, which first prompted his interest in Hokkaido food culture – Anderson is well qualified to act as a guide to this little-known cuisine. 

Hokkaido: Recipes from the Seas, Fields and Farmlands of Northern Japan​

Tim Anderson​
Number of pages: 256​
Standout dish: Stir-fried noodles with a very think sauce; Zangi (Hokkaido-style chicken karaage​
Publisher and price: Hardie Grant £28​