Book review: Liguria: Recipes & Wanderings Along the Italian Riviera

Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons owner Belmond has worked with Spanish publisher Apartamento to create the first in a series of books entitled Recipes & Wanderings that blend travel and food content. With two hotels moments away from each other overlooking the sea on the very tip of Portofino (Splendido and Splendido Mare), it is perhaps unsurprising that Belmond has chosen to explore the north western Italian region of Liguria first.  

The books starts with an introduction from Ruth Rodgers, who recounts how she and Rose Grey visited Genoa, San Remo and Liguria’s famed Cinque Terre (a string of centuries-old seaside villages) during the early days of their seminal London restaurant River Cafe. The biggest bombshell from her intro? That the River Cafe kitchen makes its pesto in a blender as opposed to the more traditional pestle and mortar (in line with famed Vernazza restaurant Trattoria Gianni Franzi).  

After a series of travel essays, the book moves onto recipes. A handful of these have been supplied by chefs including Max Rocha of London’s Café Cecilia. Dishes include classics from the region including pasta with pesto, potatoes and green beans; fritto misto; focaccia Genovese; and the almost shortbread-like canestrelli. Other recipes include the Eton Mess-like Paciugo and spaghetti alla Elizabeth Taylor. The latter was created by Splendido executive chef Corrado Corti in the British-American actress’ honour and sees Datterini tomatoes roasted slowly before being combined with fresh tomatoes to make an intense sauce (rumour has it Spaghetti al pomodoro was her favourite dish).   

Peppered throughout the book there are also mini articles about some of the area's most famed suppliers, including confectioner Antica Confetteria Pietro Romanengo and La Portofinese Eco-Farm (both supply Belmond's duo of hotels). With this book, Belmond and Apartamento have shown there's a lot more to this often overlooked region of Italy's cuisine than pesto Genovese.  

Liguria: Recipes & Wanderings Along the Italian Riviera ​

Number of pages: 166​
Must try recipe: Cappon Magro (an elaborate seafood and vegetable salad topped with green sauce) ​
Publisher and price: Apartamento, €49​