Uncorked: Brendan Padfield

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine​

It was probably at university that my interest began. Initially, in my first year, we drank whatever was dirt cheap. Quality was mostly irrelevant when the party was in full swing. Thus I guzzled far too much Niersteiner Gutes Domtal. However, it turned out I had been drinking antifreeze. Unscrupulous Austrian wineries had used toxic diethylene glycol to adulterate bulk white wine to make it sweeter before export to Germany for bottling. It was a real scandal at the time. The Niersteiner was thus binned. It was really college events and formal dinners that began my exposure to my college’s cellar to then somewhat broaden my horizons.

Describe your wine list at The Unruly Pig​

Eclectic, a little bit quirky with an Italian bent - just like The Unruly Pig really. It is not a huge list - about 60 wines, 55 plus of which come by the glass. We are deliberately an accessible venue - thus there are the usual suspects on the list plus wines of particular interest to me and the lovely team with whom I am lucky enough to work. Wine bottles start at £24.50 and go up to £595 (the latter being Chateau Rayas Reserve 2011). 

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters? ​

I make mistakes every week but, at my age, I have no excuse. Most recently a rather expensive bottle of Barolo ended up in a stew. Great stew though. 

Name your top three restaurant wine lists​

We celebrated our eldest daughter’s birthday at Claude Bosi at Bibendum recently - best food I can remember and the wine list was just glorious. The Draper’s Arms in Islington punches above its weight. Although it does not have the same weighty tome of Bibendum’s wine list, it is nonetheless impressive in its own way. And finally Noble Rot. Love their vintage stuff.

Who do you most respect in the wine world? ​

Pass. There are too many. 

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently? ​

Finca Mas Viella Gran Autocton Blanc 2020 (90% Xarel lo, 10% Malvasia de Sitges) - creamy, textured and a great price. A Catalonian corker.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?​

Structured. Floral. Gooseberry. 

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment? ​

Quinta da Romeira (Arinto) Buclelas at £36. This Portuguese gem is my favourite mid week tipple: flexible and silky smooth with good length. 

What is your ultimate food and drink match? ​

Recioto della Valpolicella and chocolate, or maybe with Cropwell Bishop Stilton

Old World or New World?​

My toe is in both camps but when push comes to shove, Old.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants? ​

When the bottle is out of reach so I can’t pour for myself when I want a top up. Which my wife will say is far too often. 

Who is your favourite producer right now?​

Langham Estate in Dorset. Their Blanc de Blanc is up there with the best of fizzes and is one of our best sellers at The Unruly Pig (often outselling our Champagnes). I adore its trademark saline nuttiness.

As the owner of The Unruly Pig, what question do you most get asked by customers?  ​

Where did you get the name of the pub? The answer? I wanted to create a different identity to my predecessor for varying reasons. I therefore wanted a name that was not only different to the pack but which also suggested somewhere that is down to earth and lots of fun.

Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?​

Maybe Georgia, though this ancient wine producing country’s star is certainly in the ascendancy. We have a lovely little red Georgian number on our list at the moment: Bedova 2021 from Kakheti. It really hits the value for money/ quality ratio.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why? ​

Probably spaghetti vongole with, say, a Pagus Camilla Vermentino. I tried the 2017 vintage recently and loved it. However, as I spent much of my childhood living in Wales (and in memory of my mother’s cooking) maybe rack of Welsh lamb with Château Palmer: predictable choices perhaps but a wonderful pairing nonetheless. I have the cliché British love of claret (for I am of that age).