Latest opening: Marceline
What: Housed next to Hawksmoor on Wood Wharf’s floating pavilions, Marceline is the latest addition to London’s ever-burgeoning French restaurant scene and takes its cues from the grand brasseries of Paris and New York.
Who: Marceline is the latest venture from chef and restaurateur Hus Vedat, who is also managing director of Aegean restaurant Hovarda in Soho. For Marceline, Vedat has brought in Robert Aikens, brother of Tom, to run the show. Aikens’ credentials are hard to faulter. As well as cooking for the Roux family in the UK, he’s also spent a significant amount of time in the US, specifically in New York where he led the menu development for famed French brasserie Pastis when it relaunched in the city’s Meatpacking District back in 2019.
The food: Aikens has created a classical brasserie menu of rustic French dishes. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable with a large plate of steak frites featuring onglet topped with maître d’hotel butter coming in at £19. Split primarily between hors d'oeuvres and entrées, the à la carte includes contemporary takes on French favourites such as steak tartare with hazelnuts, watercress, mint and artichoke chips (£14); warm cheese soufflé with Gruyère cream and truffle (£14); and ravioli dauphiné that sees a sheet of ravioli with Comté and crème fraiche served uncut in a brown butter sauce (£14). Larger mains include a grilled merguez sandwich with Ossau-Iraty and harissa mayonnaise (£14); rotisserie chicken (£23); and wild mushroom vol-au-vent (£14). Desserts range from crème caramel (£7); to apple tarte fine (£10). Positioned as an all-day restaurant, Marceline also serves a breakfast menu on weekdays that includes an omelette with wild mushroom, Boursin and spinach (£12); and eggs royale (£18). A broader brunch offering that combines dishes from the breakfast and à la carte menus is available at weekends.
To drink: Marceline’s menu includes a selection of classic cocktails such as a French martini made with vodka, roasted pineapple, raspberry, cognac, and Chambord (£12). The emphasis, though, is on the Euro-centric wine list, which is broad, extensive and, like the food, accessible, with £7 being the entry level price for a glass of red or white. In total the menu includes more than 100 bins, including several prominent labels from England. Interestingly, the layout of the list pushes the homegrown wines to the top of each section, with a £115 Danbury Ridge chardonnay leading the whites; and a £96 Flint Vineyards pinot noir précoce topping the list of reds.
The vibe: Overseen by designers Hurlé & Martín, the restaurant’s interiors include double ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, and brass mirrors reminiscent of Parisian brasseries, complemented by modern banquette seating, sculptural light fixtures and soft leathers. It’s a big space, easily able to house over 100 covers across its two storey dining room, with further seating available on the terrace.
And another thing: Not content with just one opening, Vedat is also in the process of preparing to launch a second restaurant in Wood Wharf, with Hovarda set to take up residence directly below Marceline in the coming months.
5 Water St, London E14 5GX
marceline.london
