Uncorked: Ivan Milchev
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I grew up in Bulgaria surrounded by vineyards. From a young age I helped out in my family’s vineyard. Even as a child I could see the hard work that went into growing grapes, but it wasn’t until I did service for a private wine dinner at a hotel I worked at that my interest really expanded. I realised it’s a lot more than just a drink. It brings people together. It’s an art, it’s history and it’s nature.
Describe your wine list at MUSU
The wine list at MUSU has been constructed to embrace and complement our contemporary Japanese dishes. Together with our wine partners we have developed a list rich in classics from France and Italy, as well as lesser-known wines and varieties from further afield.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I remember one busy Saturday having a bottle slip out of my hand and ending up on the table. Fortunately, it did not break but made the guests jump.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester and The Ritz in London and Eleven Madison Park in New York.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
The gentleman that sparks the fire about wine within me: George Bergier. He’s a great storyteller who shares jokes to make people relaxed about it and keep them engaged with him. He is now 77 and still does two shifts per week on the floor. I also need to give a special mention to all my WSET teachers.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Koshu, Iwasaki, Chateau Mercian from Japan’s Yamanashi region. The Yamanashi Prefecture at the base of Mount Fuji is home to Japan’s Koshu grape, an indigenous variety that has been grown in this cool region for over 1,000 years. Elegant citrus aromas of kabosu with notes of white flowers, vanilla, almonds and hazelnuts. It turned out to be a favourite in our restaurant.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Fruity, oaked, floral. Not a negative though as many wines have those notes.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Our Danbury Ridge Chardonnay (from Essex). The wine has all the characteristics of a great Burgundy and comes at a very reasonable price. Perfect to drink now but will also age well. I think this estate really helped the wine world to take notice of the quality wines England can produce.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Assyrtiko from Santorini with a seafood platter. The racing high acid of Assyritko cuts through the fried element of the food while the citrus, briny and mineral flavours complement it.
Old World or New World?
Both. Why limit us when there are great wine producers everywhere.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Dirty glassware and an overly casual approach. It shows lack of care and professionalism.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Georg Preisinger. An Austrian producer from Burgenland who not only produces outstanding wines but is also a great guy. During our last tasting together, which was not long ago, I had to leave suddenly due to my fiancé being taken to hospital. He found me on social media to check on her and pass his warm regards. What a gentleman.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
I guess every sommelier’s top question: “What’s your favourite wine”. The favourite changes depending on factors such as moment of the day, food, occasion, weather and the people you are with.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Bulgaria. The Bulgarian wine industry today is an incredibly dynamic place. The modern era of winemaking is coming-of-age with new names, grape varieties and wine styles popping up as well as more established names reinventing themselves for a new audience.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A bottle of my dad’s homemade wine. He makes it with so much love and I would really appreciate the memories that will bring me when drinking it. Even better if I can share it with my family.
