Andreas Labridis and Nikos Roussos’ debut cookbook has been timed to coincide with the 10th birthday of their debut London restaurant OPSO. More projects have followed, including fin-to-gill fish restaurant Kima and Soho grill restaurant INO (the latter closed last summer ahead of a planned relocation).
The duo can take much of the credit for restoring the reputation of Greek food in the capital with their creative-yet-authentic take on a cuisine that is still - very unfairly - perceived as being quite basic by Brits. Roussos - the group’s executive chef - is one of the most talented chefs Greece has ever produced having attracted two Michelin stars for his cooking at avante garde Athens restaurants Funky Gourmet.
The cooking at their Marylebone flagship is a lot more down to earth but still creative with the pair seeking “to challenge preconceived notions and to elevate the perception of Greek food beyond the traditional taverna fare”. OPSO: A Modern Greek Cookbook sticks to the script: while there are inevitably recipes for classics such as taramasalata and moussaka there is usually a twist of some sort, for example Roussos’ take on the former is topped with a deep-fried shiso leaf and blackened breadcrumbs.
Alongside takes on established Greek dishes are original creations, including a carbonara-inspired pasta made with smoked eel; and a clever roast cauliflower dish that sees the brassica topped with breadcrumbs, nuts and hard cheese and served with a curry mayonnaise.
A former investment banker, Labridis has worked hard to sweat his assets and diversify the group’s portfolio. OPSO does a roaring brunch trade on the weekend and is also home to a virtual delivery brand called OPSO at Home, which is focused on Greek comfort food, and the group also has a fast casual concept called PittaBun. Some of the recipes that underpin these aspects of the business also appear in the book, including egg dishes and a selection of Greek-inspired bowls.
Detailed and carefully explained, Roussos’ 80-odd recipes have not been dumbed down for home cooks meaning that the book is a true reflection of what is served at OPSO and the group more widely.
OPSO: A Modern Greek Cookbook
Andreas Labridis and Nikos Roussos
Number of pages: 288
Standout dishes: Feta kataifi; octopus stifado; baked feta cheesecake Publisher and price: Ebury Press/£35
