Flash-grilled: Keiron Stevens

Keiron Stevens chef
Keiron Stevens is set to open The Countertop in Cheltenham in April (©Mallory Court Hotel and Spa)

The chef behind soon-to-launch Cheltenham restaurant The Countertop on why he prefers tasting menus to à la carte, his signature dish, and getting his start in the industry.

What was your first industry job?
I started in the industry at Le Champignon Sauvage – a two Michelin-starred restaurant in Cheltenham that is run by David Everitt-Matthias. I walked in during the school holidays and asked if they could let me experience working in a kitchen of this standard and they said yes. I worked a week and ended up staying there four-and-a-half years, becoming David’s apprentice. That’s where I learned to cook.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
I love being creative but I also need to be kept busy. I like the practical side of working in a kitchen and working with my hands, so sticking with that, I’d maybe say something to do with woodwork. Who knows if I’d be any good though!

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
I learnt so much from David at Le Champignon Sauvage. He opened the door for me and taught me how to cook in a professional environment really. Michael Wignall has also been a huge influence in my career. He really helped me refine my cooking styles at Pennyhill Park and Gidleigh Park and instilled a lot of discipline into me which is something I’ve taken with me to my own kitchens.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
A container label stuck on top of another label. It’s outrageous, I hate it. It’s just lazy.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
I can think of a few, but they aren’t things I’d want to repeat!

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Creating well-executed dishes, combining the best local produce and flavours.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
My daughter! She loves it when my wife makes macaroni cheese, but when I do it she’s not a fan.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
You always get told to keep your head down when you’re younger and learn as much as you can. That’s probably one of the best pieces of advice I have been given.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
We have just bought a new barbeque grill at Mallory Court and I think it’s going to be my new favourite piece of kit! It packs a punch in terms of flavour and I think it will help elevate the culinary experience – not just when cooking meat, but for fish and vegetables too.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Probably a mixture of Asian cuisine. I love all Asian food really because of the depth of flavours. It’s not something I particularly grew up with, but it absolutely blows your mind when you taste something you haven’t tasted before, and you can incorporate it into different meals.

À la carte or tasting menu?
Tasting menu every time, as you get to sample the full range of cuisine.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
The French Laundry, is my all-time best, everything about it, the food, the luxury experience, the feeling of the place, the service. All top tiers! I recently sampled the tasting menu at Upstairs by Tom Shepherd which was brilliant, which covered off dishes including Orkney scallop with peanut satay and Cornish cod and mussels.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?
The Holee Cow in Cheltenham, which is a great independent burger restaurant.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Apple tarte Tatin, its an absolute classic and the best is at Trinity in London.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?
Great British Menu.

What’s the most overrated food?
Shaped tuiles – controversial I’m sure, I just don’t like them.

You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
I wouldn’t ban this, but if pushed, last minute dietary requirement requests can be problematic at times. Planning meals according to one’s individual dietary requirements can affect the kitchen’s efficiency if they are made when ordering, so it’s important to have these as early as possible, ideally at the time of booking, so we can plan ahead.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
French chef Pierre Koffman is an inspiration and would have some interesting stories to tell. It would also be cool to have a chat with Tom Hardy.

What’s your earliest food memory?
I grew up on a farm and remember my grandma asking the game keeper for some venison, which my grandfather broke down on the kitchen table, and making mince pies sat on the same table.

Twitter or Instagram?
Instagram every time – it’s a platform where you can really show off your creativity.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
Fortunately, I haven’t come close, but through a stroke of bad luck I have had my car written off in the past.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
I like nothing more than a bit of family time, so you’ll probably find me on a family day out or at home playing with my daughter.

What’s your tipple of choice?
I love a Neck Oil IPA.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
Every morning I have a double espresso with a yoghurt!

What do you consider to be your signature dish?
Everyone I talk to is really positive about the pork belly on the menu, so I’d say that! The meat is brined and slow-cooked for 24 hours before it’s crisped up in the pan. We serve it with potato terrine, Roscoff onion in garlic and butter, French-trimmed suckling pork rack, a white bean purée and a beer vinegar gel. It’s become a real favourite already.