Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
When I was a teenager, I thought I wasn’t going to like wine. I used to spend a lot of time at my grandparents, and I have to say that my grandfather had many qualities, but his homemade wine wasn’t exactly the most charming of all. Then, one day my father asked me to try a muffato (a botrytised sweet wine). Suddenly I was captured by the most fascinating array of perfumes that nature can give: a symphony of fragrances!
Describe your wine list at The Goring
The core of our wine list is French, with a focus on Burgundy and Bordeaux because that’s what our clientele orders the most. Besides these and the usual classics, we list wines from another twenty-seven countries, driven by the desire – almost a mission I would say – to guide our guests in the discovery of the hidden gems of the world wine scene. We also buy a lot of wine en primeur, allowing us to offer very fine bottles at convenient prices.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Back in Italy, I approached a table with confidence, and a magnum of Spumante in my hands, the last bottle of a wonderful vintage. Then, when I went to open the bottle, the liquid suddenly exploded in the air in the style of an F1 podium celebration, soaking the carpet and part of the tablecloth.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
There are many Michelin-starred restaurants in London which have prestigious wine lists. However, if I was to choose outside of the Michelin environment, I would say Bob Bob Ricard for the affordability, The 10 Cases for the ever-changing selection, and Noble Rot for the selection by the glass.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Whoever contributes to creation of the wine, from the workers in the vineyard to the ones in the winery, whose name sadly cannot appear on a wine label.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
During a recent visit to Cyprus, I came across a local grape variety called Promara, which usually gives medium-bodied whites for early consumption, characterised by a nimble sip, and silky nuances of chamomile, aromatic herbs, and bergamot.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Fresh, fruity and sour cherry aroma.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
It is probably a Fleurie from Domaine Metrat. When we first tried it on blind with the team we actually thought it could be a Pinot Noir from one of the major appellations in Côte d’Or.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Roquefort and Sauternes. I will never tire of the way the sweetness of the wine plays with the spiciness of this the cheese.
Old World or New World?
Old World. I am intrigued by the infinite possibilities of making wine from a myriad of indigenous grape varieties that thrive in every corner of the Italian country. And then, of course, I am bewitched by Burgundy as well.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I don’t like the ‘decanting at all costs’ style of wine service. In some restaurants they tend to decant every single bottle of red they open. I am not a fan of this practice at all: some wines may be too young to undergo this process, and others not complex enough or just lacking in structure.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I recently opened a bottle of Meursault Les Tillets 2011 from Patrick Javillier, third generation of winemakers based in the heart of Meursault. A Chardonnay that impressed me for elegance, freshness and longevity
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
What’s your favourite wine? I usually don’t pick a specific one. I like to say that the good wines are the ones that evoke good memories or the ones that you have the chance to share with people you care about.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment (and why?)
With a few exceptions, the whites from the South and South West of my region, Umbria, are still known to very few (at least abroad).
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Château d’Yquem 1985. The most celebrated Sauternes from the best vintage of all time. I have dreamed of this wine for years.
