When it comes to cheese the Europeans are second to none, making almost twice as much as its closest rival the US, with countries France, Germany and Italy leading the way. Yet many other European countries have a lot to offer customers and restaurants in terms of their cheesemaking prowess, with the Netherlands, Poland, Cyprus, Croatia, Portugal, Spain, and Ireland all producing excellent cheeses.
Fresh cheese is the biggest category by volume, followed by medium hard, hard, and then processed cheese, with the first three categories being of most interest to chefs and restaurants looking to either cook with cheese or create more interesting cheeseboards.
Cheese expert Patrick McGuigan recently held a masterclass as part of the European Union’s three-year More Than Only Food & Drink campaign where he introduced the trade to a wide range of interesting European cheeses - some which will be familiar to chefs and UK consumers, others which most certainly won’t be.
“There are lots of benefits to having EU cheeses on menus. Firstly, the sheer diversity of being able to choose products from 27 member states, each of which have their own unique terroirs, histories and food cultures,” says McGuigan.
“Cheeses reflect and embody these traditions. They are rooted in the places where they are made in much the same way as wine.”
The Protected Food Names scheme guarantees these traditions and standards and there are more than 300 cheeses which are legally protected under the scheme. This includes Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), where products registered as PDOs have clear and undisputed links to the place where they are produced. Every part of the production process, including preparation and processing, must take place in the specific region to which the protection applies.
Products can also be certified as Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), which explains the relationship between a particular region and the name of the product. Unlike a PDO, it requires a minimum of one element of the production, processing, or preparation of the product to take place in the region to which the indication applies.
“For chefs choosing cheeses for their restaurants, PDOs and PGIs are a really good way of ensuring they are getting cheeses that are authentic and traditional and have a great backstory linked to a particular place,” says McGuigan. “They also help guarantee the quality of the cheese.”
Highlighting the diversity and depth of European cheese making, here is a rundown of the cheeses showcased at the event, with information on their flavour profile, how they can be used by restaurants, and suggested food and drink pairings.
Burrata di Andria PGI, Italy
Resembling mozzarella, burrata is a creamy cheese with a soft texture. Originally made in the city of Andria, Burrata di Andria PGI is now celebrated as one of Puglia’s most prized cheeses. “Burrata can be made anywhere but the original is from Puglia - if you want the real deal this is the stuff to get,” says McGuigan. Burrata is made by filling mozzarella with stracciatella, a cheese made from pulled mozzarella and double cream and is believed to have been invented by a dairy farmer who wanted to preserve his milk. The cheese is traditionally tied with grass but these days plastic is often used. “Burrata is a cheese that restaurants use a lot,” adds McGuigan, citing Mediterranean restaurant NOPI as one example that changes its burrata dish with the seasons - it is currently on the menu served with saffron quince, harissa, and coriander seeds.
Ξύγαλο Σητείας / Ξίγαλο Σητείας / Xygalo Siteias / Xigalo Siteias PDO, Greece
This soft, fresh cheese comes from the town of Sitia in eastern Crete and is made simple from the natural acidification of goat’s and sheep’s milk with a touch of salt (no rennet is added). “It’s basically a curd - you think it will be like a cream cheese but it’s really sharp and has a unique flavour,” says McGuigan, who suggests it is used spread on crusty bread or in salads. “The texture is really light and fluffy.” McGuigan says that Xigalo Siteisas PDO pairs well with Greek white wines such as assyrtiko and sauvignon blanc.
Χαλλούμι / Halloumi / Hellim PDO, Cyrpus
Halloumi PDO has to made in Cyprus to be called so and can be made from sheep’s, goat’s and cow’s milk, but there must be less cow’s milk than any other according to McGuigan. This cheese was sampled raw, rather than cooked as it is typically served in the UK, which is how it is traditionally eaten in Greece and Cyprus, often with watermelon at breakfast, grated over pasta or used like feta cheese in a salad, he says. “Halloumi is massive in Britain, you see a lot of halloumi burgers because they are quite meaty and salty, but I’d like to see it served raw as it is in Cyprus.”
Brillat-Savarin PGI, France
This triple cream cheese is one of those cheese that once people discover it they can’t stop buying it, says McGuigan. With buttery creme fraiche notes and a smooth, thick, indulgent texture he suggests it can be a festive cheese and makes good canapes when served on charcoal crackers with cherry. The nature of the cheese means it can liven up a cheeseboard or be a standalone dish - McGuigan suggest restaurants serve one topped with seeds, honey raisins, and cranberries. “It’s a nice thing for a table of two or three people to order.” Chefs can also cook with Brillat-Savarin PGI, including making a distinctive slightly less sweet cheesecake.
Alp Blossom, Germany
A striking cheese made from the milk of two local herds of Brown Swiss cows in the Allgau region of Bavaria whose rind of covered in a mix of flowers and herbs including chervil, lavender, marigold, cornflowers, and rose petals. “When they see this on a cheese counter people will buy it. Something that stands out such as this does get people interested,” says McGuigan, who adds that it has become very popular in cheese shops over the past two years. “This is cheese that catches your attention.” People can choose to eat the flowers and herbs or not, with the cheese having a sweet and gentle flavour. McGuigan suggests the cheese pairs well with sparkling wine such as a cremant from Luxembourg.
Queso de Valdeón PGI, Spain
Made from a blend of cow’s and goat’s milk and enriched with penicillium roqueforti this Spanish cheese undergoes a 45-day maturing process in limestone caves. Wrapped in sycamore leaves it develops rich mushroomy and spicy notes. McGuigan describes the cheese as “quite a fiesty one” thanks to its strong flavour and suggests pairing it with fig-based accompaniments as well as fortified wines or full-bodied red wines.
Queijo de Azeitão PDO, Portugal
Coagulated with flowers from the local Cardoon thistle, this is a style of cheese called a ‘torta’ in Spain and Portugal, says McGuigan. The inclusion of the thistle gives the cheese bitter and herbal notes and is unlike anything typically found on restaurant cheeseboards, he says. “I’d love to see these in restaurants served with the top cut off so that people can dip bread or breadsticks in it,” he says. “You don’t see it very much in Britain, which is a shame.”
Paski sir PDO, Croatia
Croatian cheeses are not usually found on UK cheeseboards, but maybe they should. This Croatian cheese is produced on the island of Pag and is made from the milk of wild sheep that graze on herbs on the island’s rugged landscape. The island’s salty air contributes to the cheese’s overall flavour. “We talk about terroir in cheese just as we do with wine and the terroir of the cheese comes and the briny environment comes through in the flavour.” Food pairings include salads and fresh fruit, charcuterie, and pasta, with full-bodied red wines a good matching drink choice.
Terschelling, The Netherlands
This cow’s milk cheese is made in small island of Terschelling in northern Hollands and is matured for up to 12 months. The cheese has a natural rind and has a sweet flavour profile, according to McGuigan, with flavours of caramel and a smooth texture. Terschelling is certified as organic and carries the European Union green organic label. The cheese has the style and texture of a gouda and pairs well with light white and red wines as well as beer.
Mount Leinster cheddar, Ireland
Producer Tom Burgess only uses milk from his cows at pasture in the summer because he thinks this makes the best milk for cheese, selling his winter milk to a local milk processing plant. His cheese is a golden colour traditional handmade cheddar coated with cloth that has a sweet flavour that develops more nutty notes as it ages. McGuigan says the Irish landscape and climate means that the country produces cheddar like no other. “The lush pastures of Ireland thanks to its rainfall do make a difference,” he says. “They have a butteriness that you don’t find in British cheeses. The cheese there have their own character. Mount Leinster cheddar pairs well with Irish whisky and cider but would go equally well with a ruby or tawny port.