What: The relaunch of one of London’s most historic dining rooms. Originally dating back to 1911 and famous in the 1920s for its ‘thés dansants’ (tea dances), which attracted the capital’s fashionable elite, the reopening of The Georgian follows an extended closure and extensive renovation. Purists have nothing to fear, though, with the new look retaining The Georgian’s Art Deco charm and the menu celebrating the restaurant’s 120 years of history.
Who: The project has been managed by Harrods director for restaurants and kitchens Ashley Saxton, who has overseen a complete reboot of the world-famous department store’s F&B over the past five years or so. Self-styled pie master Calum Franklin has been brought in to lead The Georgian’s evening menu, with the restaurant continuing to serve an afternoon tea by day that’s being led by executive pastry chef Markus Bohr and Harrods in-house pâtisserie team. It marks Franklin’s first major project in London since he left Holborn Dining Room in the summer of 2022. In the intervening years the chef has cast his net further afield, relocating to France and launching British brassiere Public House in Paris’ opera district earlier this year.
The food: Naturally, given Franklin’s involvement, there’s a heavy focus on pastry-based delicacies on The Georgian’s evening menu. This includes a dedicated pie selection with options including a beef shin and squash pie (£35); chicken and penny bun pie (£30); and Atlantic lobster pie (£45). There’s also a special ‘Pie Experience’ for two (£90) featuring a lamb pie served with ratatouille, anchovy tempura, sweetbreads, and a lamb consommé. Many other dishes have been inspired by recipes from the Harrods archive, which have been updated by Franklin with a ‘contemporary focus’. They include the 1909 Harrods Diamond Jubilee consommé (£15), a clarified chicken broth with roast celeriac that’s infused with Lapsang Souchong tea; the 1960 pâté en croute (£18) featuring smoked rabbit, smoked Alsace bacon and pistachio wrapped in pastry, set with Marsala jelly and served with Cumberland sauce; and the 1951 veal with sour cream and smoked paprika sauce (£52).
To drink: This being Harrods, the selection is vast, with the wine list running to 15 pages and including an extensive range available by the glass. Like the food menu, the cocktails take both classical and contemporary cues. Options include The Georgian Martini (£18.50) with Tanqueray No. Ten gin, Mancino Sakura vermouth, Fino sherry and strawberry bitters; a pisco punch (£18) with Barsol pisco, Galliano, pineapple-ale syrup and Harrods Brut Champagne; and the Sherry Cobbler (£16), Don Julio Blanco tequila mixed with Fino sherry, Luxardo Maraschino Cherry, pineapple, grapefruit and agave.
The vibe: The redevelopment of The Georgian has been led by David Collins Studio and the Harrods in-house development team. The design of the 164-cover dining room honours the heritage of the Knightsbridge building, preserving much of the Art Deco architectural detail of the room. There’s lavish, velvet-covered banquettes; glistening chandeliers (25 of them to be exact); and a mirrored bar. An entertainment programme plays throughout the day with a central piano featuring throughout the tea service. The evening music, meanwhile, is inspired by the history of the room and includes nods to the Jazz Age of the 1920s.
And another thing: When it originally opened in 1911, The Georgian was London’s largest restaurant.
Fourth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL
harrods.com/en-gb/c/restaurants/the-georgian
