Uncorked: Klearhos Kanellakis

Ekstedt at the Yard sommelier Klearhos Kanellakis
Ekstedt at the Yard sommelier Klearhos Kanellakis (©Ekstedt at the Yard)

The sommelier at Ekstedt at the Yard on overpriced wine lists, Galicia and pairing tuna tartare with blanc de blancs.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

While studying at university in Greece, I began working as a waiter at cafés and restaurants. This experience sparked my passion for gastronomy. Eventually, I felt the need to deepen my understanding of wine. Once I started taking wine courses with WSET, I became fascinated by the tastes and cultures of different wine regions worldwide.

Describe your wine list at Ekstedt at the Yard

Balance is the key. Our wine list strikes a balance between classic regions and lesser-known areas, as well as between small growers and well-established producers. I feature certain regions that I find particularly interesting with additional listings, but not at the expense of other regions. Rhone, Tuscany, Rioja and Mendoza are some of my favourite red wine regions. Germany, Austria, Hungary and Greece for whites.

Throughout your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

I’ve had plenty. I’ve accidentally poured the wrong wine into different glasses, blending a Priorat with Burgundy and have shattered countless glassware, among other mishaps. The key is to learn from each mistake and grow.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

Enoteca Turi, The Connaught, and Chez Bruce (all in London).

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

Gerard Basset, who sadly passed away a few years ago, was our profession’s role model. He was a master of his craft, possessed all the great qualifications, won all the prestigious competitions and was an extremely humble, polite, and friendly personality.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

A rare gem by the Sicilian winery Benanti: Rovittello, Etna Rosso Riserva from ungrafted centenarian vines in volcanic soils. It is currently featured on our Chef’s Table wine pairing at Ekstedt at The Yard.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Smells like Christmas; smells like Port; and it is very Burgundian in style.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

I hope there is not only one. My role is to find the best value wine and the best expression of a grape and region in each price category of the wine list.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

Tuna tartare and blanc de blancs Champagne.

Old World or New World?

Both. It would be boring without one or the other. Things change so fast that it is very difficult to guess which wine is from Europe and which is not these days.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

Overpriced wine lists and the dogmatic thinking of the sommelier on what wines to be included in the list.

Who is your favourite producer right now?

I appreciate when a grower has a deep understanding of his terroir, is a genuine artist by giving his interpretation and all the labels of his portfolio from the top to the bottom share the same values and quality. This producer also needs to be a good ambassador for their region. Some that instantly come to mind are Vinatigo from Tenerife, Benanti and Graci from Etna, Champagne Pol Roger, Remirez de Ganuza in Rioja, Chapoutier and Chaves from Rhone, Casa Ferreirhina in Douro, Villa Calcinaia in Tuscany, Weingut Julg and Georg Mosbacher from Germany, Royal Tokaj from Hungary and Zuccardi from Mendoza.

As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?

People often ask me if there is a single wine that can go with all of the courses of their meal.

Which wine-producing region or country is underrated?

The region of Galicia in Spain. I’m sure we will see more and more great white wines from Valdeorras and reds from Ribeira Sacra here in London. Some very small producers make tiny amounts of wine from very difficult-to-cultivate locations. The wines though can compete with the best whites and reds in Europe still at a fraction of the price of the rest in the same category.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?

Tuscan Chianti Classico with a well-made pasta Bolognese cooked by my partner at home. A humble pairing but a perfect meal doesn’t have to have fancy ingredients or a wine that costs three or four digits.