What: A third outing for Eastern Mediterranean restaurant group Delamina. On the former site of high-end Portuguese restaurant Volta do Mar, Delamina Townhouse is the group’s largest site to date with a total of 110-covers spread across multiple dining areas.
Who: Delamina was founded in Shoreditch by Amir and Limor and Chen in 2016. The former is well-known in the industry as the co-founder of fast casual sandwich chain Apostrophe, which grew to 23 sites before selling to contract caterer CH&CO in 2014. An artist by trade, Limor is billed as the creative force behind Delamina overseeing the menu as well as the design of the sites. The husband-and-wife duo both grew up in Tel Aviv but have spent most of their lives in London.
The food: A talented home cook rather than a trained chef, Limor draws her inspiration from the eclectic food culture of her home city. The menu has some existing dishes from the other sites but the bulk of it are new creations, or at least new spins on Delamina classics, Limor says. Dishes from the former camp include charred cauliflower with lemon-infused crème fraiche, pomegranate molasses and seeds; beef shawarma with dates and pine kernels, salad of house pickles, vegetables, herbs and tahini; and their popular kadayif nest of vanilla cheesecake cream, caramelised pecans and orange peel reduction. Menu items exclusive to Delamina Townhouse include arak-cured sea trout, mixed herbs and foamed labneh; za’atar-marinated seafood on the plancha with golden beetroot aioli; and herby venison koftas on skewers, pistachio cream and barberries.
To drink: The wine list starts at £30 a bottle for still wines and tops out at £75. Bins are sourced from all over the world but there is a slight bias towards the Middle East, particularly Israel. Cocktails include Pomegroni (Barberry-infused gin, pomelo Campari, Amaro Montenegro); and Jaffa I’ve Mist You (Havana 7, candied orange syrup, orange bitters, elderflower).
The vibe: The attractive, light-filled space has a more refined feel than the group’s other two sites. Set within a Grade II-listed townhouse, the restaurant comprises a ground floor dining space and bar on the ground floor, two drawing rooms with fireplaces upstairs, and several private dining spaces, as well as a small outdoor terrace. Design details include soft furnishings in neutral tones and Limor’s own artwork, including paintings and sculptures.
And another thing: Limor recently published her debut cookbook. My Tel Aviv Table explores the cooking of her home city ‘a cultural melting pot of cuisines and inhabitants, ingredients and aromas’.
13-15 Tavistock Street, London WC2E 7PS
