Uncorked: Will Amherst
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
A decade ago, organising the wine cellar at 2KW in Adelaide. Limited wine knowledge meant I drowned trying to systemise some 200 listings, so I did a bit of research by drinking those wines I could find (and afford!) on my days off.
Describe your wine list at Trullo
Regional Italian with a little more love naturally given to Piedmont and Tuscany. We also have a short Champagne list featuring mainly grower Champagnes.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I’d like to nominate my sister for this, who dropped a tray of full Champagne flutes down an escalator at Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge during her one and only shift in hospitality.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Unoriginally, Noble Rot Lamb’s on Conduit Street. The other two have fantastic lists too but I’ll give the nod to the original. Senhor Uva in Lisbon. The prices are fantastic - Raveneau at €250 when I was last in. And The 10 Cases - the list is great, and the idea behind it (only 10 cases per order) is such a good one. I wish I’d come up with it.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Whoever devised Liberty Wine’s London logistics network. It is flawless.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Blanc des Côteaux from Apostolos Thymiopoulos; Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Vidiano and Aidani from Naoussa fermented in clay amphorae with a few days skin contact. There’s weirdly something very Jura-esque about it.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
‘Mineral’ because it’s lazy and ‘smashable’ because I hate it. I also think ‘it’s a banger’ should be criminalised.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Trullo Chianti. A bright and fresh take on classic Chianti bottled for us by the fantastic Poggiotondo. It’s reasonably priced and is brilliantly versatile with our menu.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Oysters and Champagne or scallops and white Burgundy. If I’m having people round for dinner, I always start with one of the two as you don’t have to cook oysters and you have to try really hard to burn scallops.
Old World or New World?
Both produce outstanding wines. I’ll go with Old World as it excites me more.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Aloof sommeliers. They don’t help anyone, especially given the reputation of the wine industry. Using flutes for sparkling wines irrationally irritates me too.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I’ll stick with the Italian brief and pick a pair: Philine Isabelle and Charlie Myers in Piedmont. I went to an eye-opening masterclass with Philine recently where we started with a water tasting to try and understand the influence of rock composition on tannin structure. Charlie Myers is the producer of the first Dolcetto I’ve ever really enjoyed, and I can’t wait to try the next vintage of his Cantina d’Arcy wines later this year.
As a wine buyer, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Other than ‘excuse me, are the toilets this way?’ I tend to be asked most about wine pairings.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Less adventurous buyers over here seem reluctant to try Greek wine (perhaps it’s to do with the last generation’s experiences with Retsina on holiday) but I cannot recommend it highly enough, especially in terms of the value it can offer.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A really big bottle of Champagne if I haven’t made my peace; a can of Apple Tango if I have.
