Uncorked: Leonardo Barlondi
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Wine has always been part of everyday meals back home, influenced by the nearby Chianti region.
My passion for it was enhanced while working alongside the sommelier at The Westin Excelsior hotel in Florence. It continued to grow when I arrived in London at Maze by Gordon Ramsay, where I had the opportunity to work with world-class sommeliers.
Describe your wine list at The Grill by Tom Booton
The wine list at The Grill by Tom Booton is also the wine list for the entire hotel. Each outlet offers a short selection by the glass and by the bottle, and we share our list in case guests desire something more exclusive. Our wine list is dynamic; we enjoy changing our selection regularly, featuring classic producers to cater to the tastes of The Dorchester's old-school guests, with a focus on France and Italy. Additionally, we embrace variety, offering wines from lesser-known countries to introduce our more adventurous customers to unique and exciting options.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
The dining room was crowded and loud. Carrying a tray full of Champagne glasses, I unintentionally diverted everyone's attention by dropping them on the floor, instead of the usual method of tapping a glass with a teaspoon to gather everyone's focus. It turned out to be an unexpected way to capture the room's attention, and it was quite embarrassing.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists (excluding your own!)
Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence stands out for its size and history. Helene Darroze at The Connaught impresses with its development over the years. And the Hotel Pinard in Montpellier is noteworthy as a newcomer with a family business ethos and offering great range and value.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Steven Spurrier and Gerard Basset marked an era. Today, I respect Greg Lambrecht (the creator of Coravin) for the innovation he brought to the wine world. I believe his preservation systems, which you can either hate or love, have helped everyone from winemakers to sommeliers improve in their respective fields.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
While dining in a restaurant in Lisbon I ordered a bottle of Alto do Joa tinto 2016 from Tras os Montes. It had a great structure with high, elegant tannins, violet and rose floral notes, black fruits, and excellent persistence, representing a great-value red wine.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Smooth, mineral and fruit forward.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Domane Wachau, Riesling, Smaragd, Loibenberg 2001. The wine still possesses great freshness, complexity, and longevity, allowing it to compete with the best Alsatian Riesling.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Gewurztraminer Hugel Classic 2020 pairs exceptionally well with one of Tom Booton’s roasted scallops, pumpkin puree, bacon jam and dill. While Gewurztraminer may not be the friendliest wine for pairing, the sweetness of the pumpkin, the texture of the scallops, and the strong flavour of dill create a harmonious combination with the wine's tropical, spicy, and rich flavours, along with its off-dry finish.
Old World or New World?
According to the Court of Master Sommeliers, there's no longer a distinction, which I agree with. For example, we increasingly hear about wines made in California or Australia in an ‘old world style’. I believe it's more about winemaking choices than stereotypes.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I don't like feeling rushed to finish my wine; I would be more than happy to take my time and top up the glass myself instead.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Montevertine (in Chianti’s Radda). I like the way they believed in themselves, and their success was recognised "in the glass" rather than relying on the appellation or marketing.
As a head sommelier of The Dorchester, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Apart from general questions about recommendations, the most popular inquiry during a cellar tour is about the price of the most expensive bottle.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Greece. Most tourists prefer white wines during their vacations there so the great reds (which tend to be from the north) don’t get a look in. I particularly like xinomavro.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I had the chance and luck to taste a bottle of delicious Pingus 1995 aged on land. I would love to try one from the ocean.
