Latest opening: Dongnae
What: A contemporary Korean restaurant in Bristol’s Redland area from the team behind Bokman in Stokes Croft. Dongnae takes its name from the Korean word for neighbourhood but is more ambitious than that tag might suggest offering a wide-ranging menu of authentic Korean dishes. On Chandos Road close to a number of other highly-rated restaurants including Wilsons and Little Hollows Pasta, the double-fronted restaurant offers a la carte alongside a great value £24 set lunch menu and a £55 hanjungshik (omakase style) menu.
Who: Dongnae is the second Bristol restaurant project from chefs Duncan Robertson and Kyu Jeong Jeon. The pair met working for Joël Robuchon in Paris and not long after launched a hotel restaurant in southwestern France which attracted a Michelin star. After spending a decade or so in Jeong Jeon’s native Korea the couple returned to the UK to launch Bokman a little ahead of the pandemic. Specialising in grilled baby chickens stuffed with rice, the restaurant has been a big hit (it recently attracted a rave review from Observer critic Jay Rayner). The kitchen at Dongnae is being run day-to-day by head chef Clarence Fung, who was most recently a sous chef at Tom Sellers’ Dovetale restaurant in London. Front of house is being overseen by Rebecca Lewis, who joins from highly-rated Stockport restaurant Where The Light Gets In.
The food: In development for the past two years, the menu draws inspiration from Jeong Jeon’s upbringing in Korea and the couple's time spent living in Seoul as a family. Dishes include Korean beef tartare, wild mushroom dolsotbap, whelk and perilla muchiml; pork belly and rice cake skewers; grilled pork jowl with various in-house condiments including wasabi, ssamjang and fermented clam (jeotgal); cold buckwheat noodles with dongchimi broth; and a dessert of Delica squash with black sesame injeolmi. Dongnae is being supported by a network of local producers and suppliers, including Rocketman Produce, which grows traditional Korean leaves and herbs in a nearby allotment, such as organic kkaennip and mu (Korean radish).
To drink: Dongnae’s wine list is focused on low-intervention wines from Bristol-based importer Vine Trail.
The vibe: Taking the space that was once home to two Victorian-era shops and retaining some attractive original features, the 40-or-so cover restaurant has a well-considered utilitarian aesthetic with guests seated on a wooden countertop that runs around the bar and open kitchen and on handmade tables. Design details include wood panelling, paper lightshades and funky stools made out of recycled plastic.
And another thing: The talented pair - Dongnae is one to watch - already make a lot of their key flavourings in house but will soon embark on a fermentation programme that will see them make their own soy sauce, gochujang and doenjang.
5-7 Chandos Road, Bristol BS6 6PG
www.dongnae.co.uk
