Why did you become an ambassador for Farm Africa?
For me it’s all about education. I am always learning, and we all need to support each other and learn from each other to make a better world for the next generation. The food system is highly interconnected. We saw during the pandemic how quickly those connections can break down and the implications for both producers and consumers. The global food system - which includes small scale farmers in east Africa who produce many of the commodities that we consume and rely on in our shops, homes and restaurants - should support fair, climate resilient and sustainable livelihoods for the farmers and communities that grow these foods. But the market is often leaving those farmers with a very low price for their products. Ensuring that all producers get a good deal should be an important part of our food system. That’s why Farm Africa is a really important factor in the food system, helping to ensure producers in poorer countries get a higher income and fairer share of the value chain, and also that farming is done in a way that protects and regenerates the environment.
How can the culinary world help organisations like Farm Africa?
Chefs are well placed to advocate for more responsible and sustainable food production. Things like the Chef’s Manifesto are helping to get agreement on how chefs and restaurants can work sustainably within the food system. Climate change presents a huge threat to food production and food security. On current projections, the world will need to double the amount of food that it produces by 2050, but already in some parts of the world such as east Africa we are seeing increasing rates of food insecurity, driven in large part by climate extremes (and conflict). Farm Africa works with farmers to adapt to the challenges and limitations of climate change by promoting things like regenerative agriculture, and climate smart agriculture. These approaches promote improvements in soil health and access to things like drought tolerant seeds.
Tell us about your upcoming event for Farm Africa stakeholders
It’s being held at Farm Africa’s headquarters and is a one-off for those that support the charity. I will be using bang in season produce, including mushrooms grown on walls, as well as coffee and chocolates from farms Farm Africa supports. Farm-to-fork dining is growing in our country, some of our greatest chefs have been doing this for a long time, and it would be my dream one day to also go down that route. It’s a good thing that TV shows - especially Clarkson’s Farm - have exposed the truth about farming in this country. We should be teaching kids about the importance of farming from a young age to make it a positive career choice.
You’ve been at The Dorchester for five years now. How has your restaurant changed over this period?
The brief hasn’t changed really, it’s still a modern British grill restaurant designed to be very approachable. Many people have the perception that The Dorchester is inaccessible but that’s not the case with us - we offer a set lunch menu for £35. I still have pretty much the same team I had when we first opened. We have definitely got better over the years but there are always things that we can improve. A year and a half ago we relaunched with my name above the door and introduced a more contemporary breakfast, which has gone down very well. As far as I know the Dorchester is the only five-star hotel in London to have two different breakfast offers.
What are your plans for the future?
I’m about to relaunch my Switzerland restaurant for the winter season. Sunny Bar by Tom Booton (at The Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz) offers a simpler menu than we do at The Dorchester - we do a great smash burger and fish and chips - but there are a few things from The Grill on offer including our All The Chicken sharing dish. I’m happy with that and my restaurant at The Dorchester. I just want to have a full restaurant, happy guests and a happy team. It sounds so simple when you put it like but that’s all a chef needs really.
