Flash-grilled: Alice Power

By James McAllister

- Last updated on GMT

The head chef at the Michelin-starred Black Swan in Oldstead Alice Power on swapping the Civil Service for the kitchen
The head chef at the Michelin-starred Black Swan in Oldstead on swapping the Civil Service for the kitchen, a particularly hairy commute, the best food to pair with Dr Pepper.

What was your first industry job?
My first job after training at Leith’s School of Food and Wine was as a chef de partie at Carousel in London. I couldn’t have asked for a better start – supporting guest chefs from around the world and working with a tight-knit team who each had amazing kitchen backgrounds.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
I changed careers from the Civil Service to start in kitchens – so I’m already doing the ‘other’ job… but if I had to choose again, I’d love to be an architect.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
José Andrés and his World Central Kitchen charity. In the face of hugely complex environmental and political situations, the thought process is: what do we know how to do? Feed people, so let’s do that.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
Small, scruffy behaviours like tub labels in the wrong place or oversized poorly labelled vac-pac bags. Doing it neatly takes the same amount of time as doing it poorly, but it lends itself to a much more zen environment to work in.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
‘Is it nice getting a break from doing the dishes to come and describe the food?’ I obviously wasn’t giving off ‘traditional chef’ vibes that day…

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Still learning and developing, but aiming for produce focused with a healthy respect for classical techniques.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
I don’t have one that stands out. There’s time yet, though!

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
See as many different facets of the industry as possible, even if you think it’s not what you’re interested in. Learn to communicate well, so much remaining tension in kitchens comes down to miscommunications.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
Sharp scissors.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Chicken and tarragon pie, mash and buttery greens with English mustard and a pint of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord.

À la carte or tasting menu?
Tasting menu – I like the lack of decision making and getting an insight into someone else’s.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
Dinner at The Ledbury – it’s hard to describe all the small details that make something like that feel so special and elegant.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?
I’m an (embarrassingly) avid follower of McDonalds’ Big Tasty seasons.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Sven Hanson was a guest chef at Carousel whilst developing his Oxeye restaurant concept (which I kick myself that I didn’t manage to eat at – hopefully there’ll be another chance in the future). He and his partner Kae served salted plum leaf tuile biscuits. They tick every box for me – delicious, fully focused on the produce itself but underpinned by two classic techniques, and so elegant to look at.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?
Great British Menu​. I love pottery and craftsmanship so the level of presentation chefs deliver is just as fascinating to me as the food.

What’s the most overrated food?
Cold doughnuts. I’ll take a freshly fried & sugared one any day, but I’ve never seen the appeal of a display case doughnut.

You’re a restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
Cutlery blocks. I’m more of a minimalist when it comes to what makes it onto the table

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
I grew up watching the Two Fat Ladies​ and Nigel Slater cookery programmes. I want to eat with people who are genuinely excited and greedy about food. And I’d add my Auntie Kate because they’d be her type of people too.

What’s your earliest food memory?
Boiled potatoes with cold butter and fruit scones, cooked by my grandma Alice.

Twitter or Instagram?
Instagram. It’s become such an amazing resource to see into restaurants and kitchens around the world.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
I flipped my car on some ice whilst driving another chef into work. The first thing he thought to do was film us upside down before we climbed out.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
Anywhere with a cold lake and a mountain in view.

What’s your tipple of choice?
Timothy Taylor’s Landlord.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
Dr Pepper with chips and curry sauce.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?
Still very early doors on that front, but behind the scenes I think I make a half decent pasta and focaccia for staff tea.

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