Uncorked: Alexandros Vainas
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Hospitality and wine were always there in my life. I was born in the wine region of Imathia, North Greece where PDO Naoussa produces some of the most elegant reds in the country from Xinomavro grapes. I remember many springs and summers as a kid being in family vineyards picking vine leaves to be preserved for delicious dishes, treating the plants or picking grapes for wine and tsipouro.
Describe your wine list at Sohaila
Our list is designed to pair our Lebanese inspired small plates menu at Sohaila. Our list is dynamic, changing constantly with an offer of 30-35 wines by the glass daily. We focus on natural, low intervention wines from indigenous varieties of the Mediterranean and the islands but you might be lucky some days to find some Atlantic (Portugal, Tenerife) or Eastern old world (Georgia) exemptions from people that we really want to support their projects.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
We have some big losses transporting wine in large containers and quantities in Greece.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Mountain and Noble Rot in London and Salis in Chania, Crete. The latter’s wine list showcases the diversity and quality of the local viticulture. The selection includes many indigenous grape varieties, making it a great place to explore wines that are not commonly found outside Greece along with a thoughtful selection of international wines.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
It’s always the younger generation of growers and winemakers. It’s impressive to see passion and strong opinions from the youngest ones and then watch the progress and result through the years.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
As I really enjoy the flavour of sherries, the project of Ramiro Ibáñez, Cota 45 in Jerez really got my attention at a tasting at the end of last year and immediately we added his wines to our list. He lovingly refers to his bodega as his “albarizatorio,” or a lab for unearthing the best that this legendary, white-chalk soil has to offer. The name is a reference to 45 meters above sea level, the point where he believes the best albariza soils can be found.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Crispy, mineral and refreshing are the three I am getting the most having a Mediterranean-based list.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
By the glass, La molinera 2022, Pedro Olivares. I met Pedro a couple of years ago and I was impressed by the character and uniqueness of all his wines, his ethos and his mission. This wine is a wonderfully pale red, almost rose. The nose, still a bit tight, is red berry and creamy strawberry while the palate is fresh and zesty loaded with summer red fruits and a beautiful herbaceous note.
What is your ultimate food and wine match?
Basque country-style whole grilled turbot, green salad and a four to five year old clear Cretan Thrapsathiri (ideally from Bart Lyrarakis).
Old World or New World?
Loving Greece’s culture, living in Europe and focusing on indigenous varieties, the history of the Old World is what really fascinates me.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I feel awkward when a good wine for a meal has been chosen and the wine person opens and pours in absolute silence. I would love to see some excitement and some extra info about the product shared at this point.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Eddie Chami’s Mersel wines in Lebanon. It was the perfect match when I met Eddie and his amazing family project and since then we have worked closely together. I was looking for new natural Lebanese wines and I was introduced to this very interesting project. The name comes from the region Maksar Mersel, which is the highest viticulture region in Lebanon, located between the Cedars and Ainata El Arz at an altitude ranging between 2,000 and 2,400m. They also have vineyards in Ainata in the Bekaa Valley, Dimane and Bcharre in Wadi Qannoubine, and Bousit in Northern Lebanon.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Customers love to hear all the stories behind the bottles and the times we visited the vineyards to taste the wines we list, so the most common question after a wine discussion with them is If I have visited all the vineyards on the wine list.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Thrace, a wine region located in the northeast part of Greece, comprising the districts of Evros, Xanthi, and Rodopi. Boarded by the Aegean Sea to the south and Bulgaria and Turkey to the north, Thrace has an ancient oenology scenery. The winemaking in the region took severe withdraws throughout history-especially with the Ottoman rule, the two world wars, and the phylloxera outburst. Besides that, the modern oenology with local varieties such as the reds Pamidi and Mavroudi might offer incredible wine experiences. Several other white local varieties such as Athiri, Zoumiatiko, and Malagousia can create distinct wines in this region at a great value.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I would go for a superb vintage of my youth! A bottle of well-aged Xinomavro, maybe 1997 as it was one of the best vintages in my lifetime paired with my favourite family dish - Vine leaves dolma, courgettes and peppers all stuffed with beef and rice cooked together in a gastro. I can happily die after.
