Latest opening: The Coal Shed Brighton
What: A deceptively big Brighton restaurant with an eclectic menu that is largely cooked over open flame. On North Street, The Coal Shed Brighton has a small frontage that gives way to a cavernous, high-specification space that’s been cleverly split up into five distinct dining areas. With room for a little under 150 covers, the restaurant is among the largest in the city of Brighton & Hove.
Who: The Coal Shed Brighton is the latest project from Raz Helalat, whose Black Rock Restaurants group is also behind Brighton’s The Salt Room, Burnt Orange and Tutto as well as The Coal Shed London. Launched in 2011 just off Brighton’s notorious West Street, The Coal Shed was Helalat’s debut and was among the first restaurants in the UK to have a Josper grill and specialise in top quality dry-aged beef joining the likes of Hawksmoor and Goodman. Well aware that neither of those things are much of a USP anymore, Helalat has worked closely with his newly-hired executive chef Lee Murdoch to redefine The Coal Shed concept. The relocation has been a long time coming - it was originally slated to launch around 12 months ago - but shows just how far Helalat has come as a restaurateur, with the new The Coal Shed Brighton representing one of the biggest restaurant investments the city has ever seen.
The food: The menu has been elevated and extended, with Helalat and Murdoch striking a balance between keeping things accessible and giving people the option to splash out on premium ingredients. And while the cooking of beef over fire remains central to the menu, the pair have also worked in an array of fish and vegetable dishes to broaden the restaurant’s appeal beyond ardent carnivores. Snacks and smaller plates include buttermilk-fried chicken with bread and butter pickles and hot sauce; watermelon ceviche with avocado, sesame milk and smoked shishito chilli; smoked babyback ribs with nappa cabbage slaw; and a half blue lobster with mango, cashew, nam jim and sesame that's served with tacos. More substantial dishes, meanwhile, include Black Duroc pork chop with roasted apple, sesame purée and heritage carrots; and butterflied sea bream pil pil with garlic, chilli and clams. The steak offer is split into two. The restaurant offers a selection of fixed weights of classic cuts including a 200g fillet and a 300g ribeye alongside more adventurous cuts that are charged per 100g including Australian wagyu tomahawk (£19) and Irish heritage breed porterhouse (£13). There is also a dedicated bar menu that offers the likes of kimchi grilled cheese and pickle; and a burger that involves a double smashed salt aged beef patty and truffle cheese fondue.
To drink: One of Helalat’s main motivations for moving the The Coal Shed Brighton was that it didn’t have a proper bar area. He has put that right and then some with a handsome bar to the front of the space that offers a wide range of reimagined classics that take influence from both London and New York cocktail traditions. Options include Spice Pear Daiquiri (Cut Spiced Rum, lime, Creme de Poiré, demerara); Fat Old Fashioned (beef fat-washed Evan Williams, bitters, salt); and Spicy Guava Margarita (Cazcabel Blanco, lime, guava juice, gochujang, agave). Starting at £28 a bottle for still wine, the wine list is expansive offering around 30 bins by the glass and a further 15 or so by Coravin.
The vibe: Designed by Helalat and Sara Fenn - who works with some of the biggest names in the business including Gordon Ramsay Group, D&D London and Dishoom - the space has the feel of a very contemporary New York steakhouse with its exposed brickwork and dark wood panelling. Walking through the main entrance, guests are greeted with a bar area that has more of a casual feel. This gives way to a more luxurious restaurant area that has no less than three private dining rooms (some can be used as restaurant overspill). The largest of these - The Flamingo Social - seats 26 guests and has its own bar, private entrance and dedicated sound system.
And another thing: Brighton resident and big beat legend Fatboy Slim caused a stir at The Coal Shed Brighton’s launch party with a surprise set.
Clarence House, 30-31 North Street, Brighton BN1 1EB
www.coalshed-restaurant.co.uk
