Latest opening: The Pig’s Ear
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What: A gastropub and restaurant located just off Chelsea’s King’s Road that occupies the site of the former The Chelsea Pig pub.
Who: The Pig’s Ear is the latest project from brothers Richard and Oliver Gladwin, who currently operate five sites in London (the pair recently closed their Richmond restaurant The Fat Badger) as well as a vineyard in Pulborough, West Sussex. The kitchen is led by Chris Hermes who has worked as a chef from the age of 16 with his formative years spent under renowned head chefs in France.
The food: Located close to the brother’s Chelsea restaurant Rabbit, The Pig’s Ear’s food offer is described as a ‘juxtaposition’ of Rabbit’s food while maintaining the group’s ethos of putting sustainability first. The menu is said to celebrate the diversity of British seasonal cooking, with many of the ingredients wild, foraged, and locally grown, including livestock that comes from the Gladwin's family farm in West Sussex. The main bar space on the ground floor features an open larder serving Lindisfarne oysters with rhubarb vinegar, while other seafood dishes on the menu include Atlantic prawns with beurre blanc; and grilled Scottish langoustines with chimichurri. Snacks include a mushroom Marmite éclair with confit egg, and cornichon; masala pig mayo and edible flowers; and paté en croute, while smaller plates comprise broad bean hummus with asparagus, and baby carrot; a Nutbourne tomato salad; and tempura courgette flower, goat’s cheese, and honey among others. Larger dishes, meanwhile, include Sussex rose veal liver; and Cornish megrim sole with capers and cockles. Additionally, there is always beef from the family’s own herd on offer, with steaks available in varying sizes and cuts, served with Cornish truffle brie, peppercorn sauce or a jus.
To drink: In keeping with its pub surrounds the drinks menu is compact and approachable. The one-page list starts with a half dozen selection of cocktails and moves on to a short selection of sparkling wines (two from West Sussex, two from France). There is also the choice of seven wines each of red and white and three rose, with a number from the family’s Nutbourne vineyard as well as a smattering from France, Spain and Italy. If you’re after something a little more interesting, ask to see the ‘Little Black Book’, which features some of Richard’s favourite bottles, with plenty available in larger formats. On draught is a selection of Harvey’s Sussex ales, alongside Guinness, Adnam’s lager, and Bitburger.
The vibe: Dating back to 1870 the pub is one of the area’s oldest taverns, and the team has worked hard to maintain its old world feel with antique apothecary dressers, chandeliers, and storied whisky barrels. The walls are filled with mismatched art with the overall aesthetic designed to create the sense of stumbling across a countryside inn in the middle of London.
And another thing: There’s more to come from The Pig’s Ear. A dining room will open on the first floor in September that promises to deliver a more refined experience complete with table service, white linen and wood panelling. On the third floor a ‘living room’ is also opening that will host sessions such as life drawing, book clubs and wine tastings. The Pig’s Ear is also the instigator of ‘The Flying Pigs’ - the pub’s very own running club, which partakes in 5km loops from the pub doorstep on the first and third Tuesday of every month.
35 Old Church Street, Chelsea, SW3 5BS
https://www.pigsearpub.com/