Arielle Johnson’s extraordinary new book brings together multiple scientific disciplines - including, but not limited to, chemistry, microbiology, psychology and neuroscience - to explore the mechanics of flavour. The good news for chefs is that her findings are presented in an accessible way and with practical application in mind. While Flavorama (sic, the current version available in the UK is the US edition) is densely packed with information, it is surprisingly accessible given the complexities of some of the scientific concepts it deals with.
A self-styled ‘flavour scientist’, Johnson advises some of the top chefs in the world including René Redzepi (she co-founded his Noma Fermentation Lab and is science director for Noma Projects). It is perhaps this experience of working with those from a non-academic background that has made Flavor-ama user friendly in a way that most other books on food science are not.
The book starts with a deep-dive into what flavour actually is before moving onto to what is probably Johnson’s key point: that flavour follows predictable patterns. Once these patterns are understood they can be exploited by chefs. By building their own personal map of flavours - Johnson uses the analogy of a Pantone colour formulation guide or an artists’s palette - cooks can eventually create their own original flavour combinations. A good example of this approach is Santiago Lastra - who is a friend of Johnson's and recently hosted her UK book launch at his London restaurant Kol - who uses his understanding of flavour to sub UK produce in for Mexican ingredients. Latter chapters in the book include concentrating flavour; extracting and infusing flavour; and creating flavour with heat.
Flavorama is peppered with recipes that illustrate different food science concepts, for example vinegars and cultured dairy preparations in the chapter on sour flavours and a recipe for a salad of tomato, pickled shiitake and avocado with roasted kelp oil within the chapter on umami. Easy to dip in and out of but engaging enough to read cover-to-cover, this book should be considered an essential tool for any chef that takes their craft seriously.
Flavorama: A guide to unlocking the art and science of flavor
Arielle Johnson
Number of pages: 304
Must try recipe: Salty cumin-fennel limeade; an algorithm for a minimalist but excellent dressing for lettuce
Publisher and price: Harvest (HarperCollins), £28