Uncorked: Ryan Johnson
Tell us about your wine list at Umu
I try to rotate by the glass as much as possible – we have regular wine drinkers here at Umu, not only does the rotation keep it fun for them but also for my staff and our pairings with the tasting menu.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
One that stands out most is when I had just started working on the floor, my head sommelier was chilling a bottle of red in the ice bucket where I was keeping a bottle of white, I then topped up red wine into customer’s white wine.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
All the sommelier’s that have ever guided me, spent their time teaching me and even giving me a push when I needed it.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
Château Rayas Châteauneuf du Pape 2005. Power, elegance, pure and finesse. It’s one of the first wines where I said 'wow'.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Fruity, mineral and oaky.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I do have my favourite pairing phases but currently in this cold season - white miso soup and a slightly warmed Gozenshu Nigori Bodaimoto sake.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Dirty or smelly glasses and not pouring wine at the table.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg (in Burgundy). I have tried some entry levels recently all the way to their grand cru’s. The consistency and quality is always top. Well done to the two sisters.
As a Head Sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Any dry wine or sake recommendation. This is more difficult for sake because the feeling of a 'dry' sake can depend on how balanced the sake is.
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment?
Spain. I’ve been trying many different Tenerife wines which are top.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
It's a very generic answer but it must be DRC. I only tried once when I was a novice many years ago.
