Latest opening: Akara
What: A West Africa-inspired restaurant near Borough Market that is named after a black-eye bean fritter. In the fairly recently launched Borough Yards development, Akara has 40-covers and ‘champions the traditional flavours of the region in a stylish and relaxed setting’.
Who: Aji Akokomi. The British Nigerian entrepreneur made his restaurant debut in 2020 with Fitzrovia’s Akoko. The ambitious tasting menu-only restaurant has seen a few changes of chef but has nonetheless been well-received. Akara - which does not currently have a named chef at the helm - is pitched as a more casual counterpoint to its older sibling.
The vibe: Designed by London-based studio A-nrd, Akara has a different look and feel to Akoko with its exposed brick walls and open kitchen with counter seating. Design details include white limestone tables and grey leather banquette seating; and a standalone six-seater bar with a distinctive carved wood façade.
The food: The a la carte menu kicks off with the eponymous fritters (pictured below) with fillings including barbecued tiger prawn; seared Orkney scallop; braised ox cheek; and wild mushroom. For mains, the restaurant serves up a selection of barbecued meat, fish and vegetable plates that are mostly designed for sharing. Options include ex-dairy sirloin steak suya with charred roscoff onion and sweet pepper sauce; Lagos chicken with glazed carrot and Senegalese hot sauce; and grilled pollock with caramelised onion and lemon sauce. There is just one dessert available - caramelised pineapple, with coconut lemon ice cream.
To drink: The wine list is compact - just 25 listings - but well-executed with a focus on lesser-known grape varieties from around the world. Just over half the wines on the list are available by the glass. Prices range from £40 to £150 per bottle and £7 to £20 by the glass. The cocktail menu features some Akoko favourites including Cacao & Dates Negroni as well as new creations like the Plantain Old Fashioned.
And another thing: Akara fritters originated in West Africa but are now eaten across the whole continent. Akokomi says his restaurant’s take on the dish - which are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside - is inspired by the Nigerian version but also the Brazilian version, which are called Acaraje.
Stoney Street, London, SE1 9AD
www.akaralondon.co.uk
