What: Described as ‘a classically inspired but contemporary British restaurant’ the restaurant takes the space that was most recently home to Daniel Humm’s Davies and Brook, which closed at the end of 2021. The space was previously known as Claridge’s Restaurant more than 20 years ago, before a certain Gordon Ramsay got involved.
Who: Chef Coalin Finn has returned to Claridges to head up the kitchen having previously worked at Davies and Brook as sous chef for nine months. Finn, who has held roles as head pastry chef and executive head chef at The Oakley Court in Berkshire and sous chef as Sketch in London, was most recently head chef at Inverlochy Castle in Fort William, Scotland, where he re-launched the Michel Roux Jr restaurant.
The food: Claridges suffered something of an upheaval with the abrupt end to its partnership with Humm after he announced he wanted to take the restaurant down a plant-based route, but is back to what it does best - classic, opulent cooking and big ticket dishes that befit its postcode - and recent status as the 16th best hotel in the world. The restaurant serves an all day à la carte menu that kicks off with a breakfast offer that features dishes such as buckwheat crumpets with soubise cream, truffle puree and slices of truffle; a ham, gruyere and mushroom omelette; a scallop and bacon muffin; and the de rigeur full English breakfast. Lunch and dinner sees the option of oscietra or beluga caviar as well as starters of Dorset snails with parsley and parmesan croute; and beef tartare and mains of grilled native lobster (below); steak au poivre; and roasted Norfolk chicken. While the menu won’t win any awards for surprises, it’s reassuringly sophisticated and elegant, something that will strike a familiar chord with the Mayfair crowd.
To drink: A true international wine list comes as part of the restaurant offer, with wines split into countries that include France, Germany and Austria, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Hungary, Slovakia and Serbia, Greece, Portugal, USA, Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and even Wales - a Chardonnay, Ancre Hills from Monmouth. Needless to say there is also a vast selection of champagnes and sparkling wines as well as some skin contact wines.
The vibe: The restaurant has been designed by Bryan O’Sullivan Studio, with particular homage to the hotel’s art deco design heritage. Design features include Calcutta Viola marble, antique brass, mosaic flooring, central leather banquettes and pendant lamps in the style of art deco architect Joseph Hoffman. The restaurant’s distinctive art deco starburst skylights were designed by Guy Oliver and artwork has been chosen from Claridge’s extensive private collection, with pieces from Sean Scully, Guggi, Richard Gorman and two new bespoke commissions by Brian Clarke. The effect is a glamorous space that you’ll find hard to leave.
And another thing: The restaurant actually opened to diners in June but has only just officially launched to enable the restaurant to reach the high standards it sets itself by before throwing open its doors more publicly.
Brook Street, Mayfair, London, W1K 4HR