Latest opening: Cantinetta Antinori
What: An upmarket Italian restaurant just off the Knightsbridge end of Sloane Street. As the name suggests, Cantinetta Antinori is linked to famous wine company Antinori, which is behind some of Italy’s most prestigious wines having played a central role in the Super Tuscan revolution with labels including Tignanello. The company - which now has vineyard holdings all over the world - launched the original Cantinetta Antinori in Florence in 1957. More recently, its restaurant brand has expanded internationally and currently has locations in Zurich, Moscow, Vienna and Monaco.
Who: The project is being fronted by Allegra Antinori, one of the three 26th generation sisters that run Antinori, but the restaurant has been brought to the UK by the Monaco-based Giraudi Group. Though its main business is meat import and export, the group is now a major player on the international restaurant scene with brands including Beefbar and Africa Queen. The London Le Petit Beefbar is located just down the road in Chelsea and will soon be joined by a site in Edinburgh.
The food: Though billed as a Tuscan restaurant, the food at Cantinetta Antinori is not specific to the region in most cases. Perhaps Tuscan cuisine, which is typically rustic and generous, was not deemed fancy enough for such an upscale concept (the decision to not offer Bistecca alla Fiorentina is baffling given its premium credentials and affinity to the wines with which Antinori made its name). Split into antipasti, primi, secondi and dessert, the menu includes homemade tordelli filled with burrata and Vesuvio tomatoes; cured salmon with beetroot; lamb loin with leeks, borlotti beans, homemade pickled baby carrots and mint sauce; and a constructed-at-table pistachio tiramisu.
To drink: Every wine on the list comes from wineries owned by Antinori. With the company having interests all over Italy alongside a handful of international wineries, this is not nearly as restrictive as it sounds. What is odd is the relatively small selection of wines from the group’s iconic estates. There are just four top wines from Tenuta Tignanello (Tignanello 2015 and 2019 and Solaia 2010 and 2018). The lack of a by-the-glass programme that gives guests easy access to prestigious bottlings also feels like a missed opportunity.
The vibe: Opposite Louis Vuitton, the London iteration of Cantinetta Antinori is set within a surprisingly-cavernous former retail unit (3,700sq ft). Designed by Italy-based architectural firm Archflorence, the look of the space is inspired by the original Cantinetta Antinori in Florence. The ground floor is almost tavern like with its dark wooden panelling and long bar while the upstairs is lighter and more airy in feel. Design details used across the venue include brass vine leaves, displays of wine, and Tuscan-made wall-mounted plates bearing bright illustrations.
And another thing: The Giraudi Group is rumoured to be in the process of bringing its Africa Queen brand - which despite its name is focused on French cuisine - to London.
