Uncorked: Juliet Doughty
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I have always had an interest in wine, starting from Oddbins visits with my father on a Saturday morning where they always had something open to taste – I was intrigued. My parents have always enjoyed wine, and it was an important part of every meal.
Describe your wine list at Elystan Street
Interesting, diverse, organic, honest, some hidden treasures and a little something for everyone.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Before my sommelier days, I was working at a restaurant in Brighton and was opening a bottle of Champagne in front of the guests. The cork flew out of the bottle, hit the ceiling, the bottle then continued to fall out of my hands to the ground, exploding Champagne across the entire restaurant. It is a moment I have never forgotten.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Hawksworth in Vancouver. An incredibly fun list to work with, and a cellar the size of my London flat, so they could buy to lay-down. Then Maison François (in London) because I love how dynamic, educational and interactive this list is, with a good couple of maps so you can see where you are buying from. And finally Hide (also in London) because you have the ability to have an entire two floor shop as your wine list by digitally browsing through the huge range of bottles at Hedonism Wines.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Winemakers and Olivier Humbrecht MW. His knowledge and dedication to organic and biodynamic farming is incredible. I was lucky enough to work on his Canadian project in the Okanagan Valley for two vintages at Phantom Creek Winery, where he is the consultant white wine maker.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
2019 Nareklishvili & Sons Winery, Kisi Qvevri, Kaheti from Georgia. A little bit of skin contact, this wine is outstanding, with depth and richness but beautiful elegance on the finish. A very complex nose, but the palate is remarkably fresh. An incredibly food-friendly wine.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Minerality, texture, fresh.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
There are lots. But I can’t wait to sell the 2005 Penfolds, Magill Estate Shiraz. This should be showing beautifully right now.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Double-baked cheese soufflé with cave-aged cheddar, melted leeks, button mushroom and truffle. This is a classic at Elystan Street - decadent, rich, creamy and delicious… pairing this with Champagne is heavenly, ideally one with a touch of richness, toastiness, nutty brioche notes, such as Bollinger PN TX17. It has great structure as it is Pinot Noir-based.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
A sommelier that doesn’t break a smile or say a word. Basically, I dislike no interaction. Maybe it’s the Canadian influence, but I like interacting with my guests.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Guila Negri. I want to be her! She has created some incredible wines, having taken over her family estate in La Morra, Barolo, when she was only 20. She has created something very special, and is passionate about her region, her wines and her vineyards.
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“What would you recommend?” This is a question that leads to many, many questions like "what do you like to drink?" "red or white? "bold or light?" "fruity or savoury?".
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment
Priorat. It’s such challenging viticulture - the aspect, the soils, the altitude, the ancient cellars. The wines are stunning, and we just don’t see that many of them on lists or in wine shops.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
To start I'd have 2008 Pol Roger Winston Churchill. It’s my favourite Champagne, showcasing richness with elegance, complexity with freshness. It is perfectly balanced with enough weight and toasty, biscuity notes, but also has the perfect amount of citrusy zestiness and ripe meyer lemon notes. Main course would be 2014 DRC Montrachet – one DRC must be on your final meal list! To finish I'd have 2006 Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir. I have always had a soft spot for New Zealand, having lived there for a year in 2010. I love Central Otago Pinots, with their different sort of depth and fullness, which you can’t find in other New World Pinots.
