Uncorked: Laurentiu Bulprich

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The restaurant manager at Kysty in Ambleside, Cumbria, on why sherry is the best value wine, his respect for Jancis Robinson, and New Zealand's still unexplored wine making potential.

When did you first became interested in wine?

My fledgling interest in wine sparked as soon as I started working at the Old Stamp House. It was my first job in fine dining; back then, my wine knowledge was close to non-existent. After doing a WSET course, I found that I wanted to learn more about wine, you could say it literally started growing on me, and I’ve been continuously learning ever since.

Tell us about your wine list at Kysty

Our wine list at Kysty is small and quite classically oriented. I’ve tried to be creative at times but have realised that most people like to buy wines they know, although I’m always thrilled when I have the opportunity to recommend something different when people are willing to try something a bit more adventurous.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

I remember a rather funny occasion when I was young and inexperienced. I was just starting out as a waiter in this Italian restaurant, and when someone ordered a bottle of wine, I went to the table with a bottle and served the wrong wine. I then went straight back to the rack to pick up the correct wine, and before you knew it, I’d returned to the table and served the wrong wine yet again. It was pretty embarrassing! At least the restaurant owner was kind enough to offer me one of those bottles to take home.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

L’Enclume, Cartmel, Cumbria; Antidote Wine Bar, London; The Black Bull Inn, Sedbergh, Cumbria, for hidden, good-value gems.

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

Jancis Robinson is the first name that comes to mind. She has done and achieved so much in this space. Some of my favourite wine books are also written by her. She’s such a great character and personality, and has inspired so many wine professionals and enthusiasts worldwide.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?

I am a big fan of semillon because it can have a wide array of different expressions. One of the most exciting expressions I have tasted is called 'Epileptic Inspirations' (100% Semillon) and is made by the Blankbotle Winery in South Africa.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Fruity, crisp, and floral. 

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

I won’t pick up a bottle, but I’m going to say sherry because it is the best-value wine on everyone’s wine list. I hope this style of wine will regain the reputation it deserves.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

Ahh, it's hard to pick one. I will have to say sauvignon blanc and goat’s cheese because it’s the one I’m pouring the most at the moment.

Old World or New World?

It depends on the occasion and the style required.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

I don’t have one, I’m fairly easy to deal with.

Who is your favourite producer at the moment, and why?

Susana Balbo, also known as 'The Queen of Torrontes,' is one of Mendoza's most recognisable and representative wine figures, which is also one of my favourite wine regions. She has achieved so much throughout her career and helped to put Argentina and Mendoza on the map. I guess I don’t need to say it but she’s making some excellent wines and now has her two children involved in the business too.

As a restaurant manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?

What one glass of wine do you recommend with both starter and main? 

Which wine-producing region/country is currently underrated and why?

New Zealand has only just scraped the surface when it comes to exploring the potential of its unique soil and climatic conditions. I also admire their respect for the environment, which is led by unity and cooperation with the aim of reaching high levels of sustainability.

It’s your last meal, and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it, and why?

It would have to be a very vintage bottle of champagne.