How I Got Here: Janine Edwards

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The head baker at Toklas Bakery in London's Temple on the importance of understanding your target market, fears over staffing, and problems with consumer expectations.

Why bakeries?

I’d say the food that comes from bakeries is the centre of most cultures, and the sharing of bread is an age-old tradition, so I enjoy the bringing together of both people and cultures. Food does that in general, and baking is even more at the core of that. Traditionally, in history, the bakery would be where the community would come together to bake their loaves and socialise. It’s at the core of our existence.

Tell us something you wish you had been told at the start of your career?

Write everything down! Even if you make the same things everyday, write down your recipes, methods. Advice given by superiors and colleagues. Supplier contacts and ingredients. Work flow tips. As you move companies or change positions you will forget things and then one day, you’ll wish you had the information to refer to.

What’s your favourite restaurant or group of restaurants (besides your own)?

For me, it’s Robin Gill's group, and JKS. I love how they present seasonality, and the food and environments are always so fun, yet they still manage to stay true to quality and the ingredient/produce.

What motivates you?

The ingredients, I feel very inspired by ingredients and flavour. Travelling, I enjoy exploring food and culture from around the world.  Being out of your comfort zone stretches you and I enjoy that challenge. Delivering a good experience overall, not just a quality product, is important to me above all.

What keeps you up at night?

The staffing crisis. And when a dough hasn’t gone quite to plan – it’s difficult to imagine how it’ll turn out the next day. Also, sometimes I’m still at the bakery at night, so I don’t need keeping up!

Which colleague, mentor or employer has had the biggest influence on your approach to the restaurant business?

Anthony Demetre, he taught me to cook with my senses. Then, Dan Joines, who is one of the partners of the Robin Gill Group. He taught me about managing teams, and was someone I could lean on during some stressful times.

What time do you wake up?

For a bake shift? 3.45am, which is pretty reasonable by bakery standards.

How do you let off steam?

Dancing. I love to go dancing. That, and a great meal with a good friend.

Coffee or tea?

Coffee in the morning, tea in the afternoon.

How often do you check your emails?

Twice a day – once at the start of my shift, and then some point during the day. 

Describe your typical Sunday?

A lie in! Stretching, which is important as we’re on our feet all day, then I’ll head to a food market. In the evening, I’ll meet friends for a meal.

What's your favourite holiday destination?

Greece – the simplicity of the food, the generosity of the people, the sea and sunshine.

What are you currently reading?

I just finished The Promise, by Damon Galgut. It’s a fictional tale about a family living in South Africa, dealing with personal tragedy and broken promises whilst navigating the upheaval of the country’s apartheid era.  It’s beautifully written, a great read!

What's been your best business decision?

Understanding your target market and the message you want to portray to people. Nothing hurts more than people not knowing what you’re all about – or worse, getting it wrong.

And the worst? 

To grow outside of your means in terms of staffing, space and supply. I have found this is especially true in bakeries which require a lot of space.  Dedicated and skilled staff are becoming increasingly difficult to come by.  And should you choose to work with heritage flours and smaller producers like we do, you need to ensure they can support your growth. 

What piece of advice would you give to those looking to climb the rungs in the business?

Work for companies that inspire you and who want to invest in your growth.  In return hard work, dedication and initiative will always stand you in good stead.  This industry is driven by passion and hard work.  Learn how to manage people at all levels.

If you could change one thing about the restaurant industry today, what would it be?

The consumer expectation on the industry. I sometimes think that we put the consumer before ourselves, which can mean sacrificing a lot in terms of your own needs and your team’s needs.

Bio

Born in Johannesburg, South Africa, Edwards trained to be a baker at the Cordon Bleu Cookery school in Johannesburg and started out working in the city's Baytree Restaurant. She then moved to Scotland where she spent a year at Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Hotel, before relocating to London and working at Anthony Demetre's Arbutus. Later jobs included a stint working for Robin Gill at The Deli and The Dairy. Edwards joined Toklas as head baker in 2021.