Latest opening: Solstice
What: A tiny but ambitious restaurant on Newcastle’s Quayside in the former site of Michelin Bib Gourmand-winning bistro Violets. Seating just 14 diners, Solstice offers a 15 to 18-course tasting menu of focused, modern cuisine. The restaurant will initially be open Tuesday to Friday evenings but is likely to start offering lunch on Thursdays and Fridays soon.
Who: North East-born chef Kenny Atkinson. After a successful career heading the stove at other people’s restaurants (and regular attracting stars) Atkinson and his wife Abbie struck out on their own with House of Tides in 2014. Located in a gloriously wonky Grade I-listed 16th Century former merchant’s townhouse, the restaurant has been a big hit in a city that - traditionally, at least - would rather have a Gregg’s sausage roll than a fine dining experience. House of Tides holds a Michelin star and is currently ranked 16th on our own list of the top 100 restaurants in the UK. Solstice will be staffed by up to four chefs, a restaurant manager, a sommelier and a commis waiter. The new team is largely made up of former House of Tides team members, including previous junior sous chef Scott John Hodgson. Atkinson is taking the highly unusual step of not opening at the weekends to improve work life balance for himself - he plans to cook there a lot - as well as his staff.
The vibe: With its clean - and notably straight lines - and fully-open kitchen Solstice is the antithesis of House of Tides. Located a little more into town than its older sibling, the restaurant’s key feature is a sleek, generously-marbled kitchen that screams gastronomic ambition. The dining room is a simply yet tastefully done with Scandi-style chairs, light wooden floors and striking light fittings designed to references the restaurant’s name.
The food: Atkinson’s menu gives very little away with each course named after a single ingredient. Atkinson has always been a chef that gravitates towards premium ingredients but appears to be upping the ante at Solstice, with courses on the £150 menu currently including caviar, langoustine, wagyu beef, scallop, turbot and squab pigeon. Luckily, the chef is more willing to elaborate on social media. Guests can expect the likes of Lindisfarne oyster poached in its own juices with oyster and bonito butter sauce, N25 caviar and walnut oil; Langoustine tail, roasted in the oil made from its shell served with a yuzu koshō emulsion; and squab pigeon glazed with date gastrique served with its liver topped with caramelised artichoke and yeast puree, pickled Medjool date puree and black truffle.
And another thing: While that might sound complex - perhaps even a bit over ambitious - Atkinson’s cooking here looks to be as focused as ever. The complexity is more in the prep than in the eating in that the dishes are far simpler on the plate than their descriptions might suggest. Speaking to BigHospitality ahead of the launch, Atkinson was clear that his cooking style wasn’t changing per se, rather that he was looking to “push his skills” as a chef and cook more ambitious and intricate food. Though he didn’t say so explicitly, Solstice looks to be a play for two Michelin stars from a chef that already has a proven track record with the little red book.
