What: A new restaurant on Mayfair’s Clarges Street that is securing the now passed away multi-Michelin starred Joël Robuchon’s legacy for future generations.
Who: Described as focusing on Robuchon’s ‘simple, light, small plates style’, the kitchen is in safe hands, helmed by Jeremy Page, who worked closely with Robuchon for over a decade at the original L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris.
The food: Page oversees a cleverly thought out two-pronged menu of sharing plates: La Saison, a selection of contemporary dishes (six starters, six mains), including starters of pressed foie gras with figs and port; and mains of turbot with caviar and seaweed butter sauce; and Les Eternels, Robuchon’s classic dishes (also six/six). Despite the latter being backwards looking, the dishes shine in their new modern surrounds, whether it be langoustine ravioli with foie gras and savoy cabbage; caviar with rustacean gelée and cauliflower cream (pictured) and pigs trotters with tarragon mustard as starters, or half a native lobster with pimento sauce; and lamb chops with aubergine and comté for mains.
The vibe: Robuchon’s L’Atelier restaurants are famed for their dark styling with trademark black and red lacquer interior, but Le Comptoir is the diametric opposite: lighting reflects from the black-tiled floor up onto angled mirrors above an impressive white marble counter. Orange – and, inevitably, black – are the main colours, with burnt orange banquettes and chairs and black lacquered table tops, but the effect is full-on high-end brasserie chic.
And another thing: Prices can be eye-watering – a wagyu, seaweed butter and caviar one-bite snack is £29. If all this still sounds about as accessible as an Oscars after-party, opening on 7 December next door is Le Deli Robuchon, a more casual offshoot serving snacks, takeaway options and patisserie.
6 Clarges Street, Mayfair, London