Restaurant radar: October 2019

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From Douglas McMaster’s second iteration of Silo to Nico Simeone’s third restaurant launch this year, here are October’s key openings.

Silo Hackney

Having closed his zero-waste Brighton restaurant earlier this year, eco chef Douglas McMaster is opening its second iteration in the capital at the end of the month. Silo mark two will build on the work he did in Brighton to create a zero-waste restaurant but promises to be a slicker and more impressive operation. With interiors designed by sustainable designer Nina Woodcroft, and material conservationist Seetal Solanki, Silo Hackney will have a central hearth and an open kitchen featuring a counter that seats 18 people with space for a further 30 covers in the first-floor room, which will sit above Crate Brewery in The White Building. Silo will serve a daily changing menu of around 10 to 15 dishes, with the menu projected onto walls rather than printed on paper in keeping with his zero-waste ethos (it will use solar energy). Dishes will include smoked violet carrots with egg yolk and elephant garlic; and Jerusalem artichokes with stilton sauce and pickles, with the restaurant open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday and Saturday brunch.

The White Building, Unit 7, Queens Yard, Hackney Wick, London

silolondon.com

Six by Nico

Nico Simeone is poised to open his third restaurant this year with the launch of a second Six by Nico location in his home city of Glasgow next month. Occupying the Southside space previously used by Simeone as a development kitchen, the 30-cover restaurant will mark the Scottish-Italian chef’s fifth iteration of his ‘ever-evolving’ Six dining concept that he established just two years ago (he now operates the upscale yet affordable concept in Edinburgh, Manchester and Belfast). As with Simeone’s other Six by Nico sites, the restaurant will serve a six-course tasting menu that changes every six weeks and is themed around different places, memories and ideas.

142 Nithsdale Rd, Glasgow G41 5RB

sixbynico.co.uk

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Oren

Named after chef Oded Oren, this 35-cover Dalston restaurant follows a series of residencies that have included Borough Wines in Kensal Rise, and Louie Louie in Camberwell. Oren, who was executive chef of Tel Aviv restaurant Turkiz for eight years is bringing the bold flavours of Middle Eastern cooking to east London with a menu featuring the likes of small plates such as ox cheek and hummus; grilled lamb sweetbreads and za’atar; cured sardines with Cretan olive oil; and brill tartar with raw courgette and ‘laben kishk’ alongside larger dishes including his signature monkfish ‘chraime’ and hand rolled cous cous; and chargrilled hake kebabs and sheep’s yoghurt. Oren will also serve a Saturday and Sunday brunch menu with dishes such as a classic chopped liver with crisp onions; sweet aubergines, egg and salad in a pita; and ful mudammes - slow cooked British fava beans, tahini and pita.

89 Shacklewell Lane, Hackney, London

orenlondon.com 

Trivet

Four alumni of Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck have joined forces to open Trivet on the former Londrino site in Bermondsey. Led by chef Jonny Lake and master sommelier Isa Bal, the restaurant will offer ‘informal, high quality dining’ with Michele Stanco overseeing the kitchen and Melissa Fergus taking charge of the front of house. Bal says the 75-cover restaurant will showcase “ingredients and dishes from different regions around the world”. Dishes available at launch will include veal sweetbreads with raw mushroom and cumin; chicken served in a vinegar sauce with trompette mushrooms, mashed potato and glazed turnips; and squab pigeon with persimmon and kale.

36 Snowsfields, Bermondsey, London SE1 3SU

trivetrestaurant.co.uk

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Kolamba

Focusing on ‘bold and unapologetic flavours’, Kolamba (which translates as ‘Colombo’ in Sinhalese) will offer a contemporary spin on Sri Lankan cuisine when it opens in Soho later this month. Owners Eroshan and Aushi Meewella, who both grew up in the Sri Lankan capital, have drawn on the food of their childhood with many of the restaurant’s dishes containing coconut, which is ubiquitous in Sri Lankan cooking. Options available at launch will include a kalu pol pork curry; southern black pepper prawn fry; and ala thel dala, a Sri Lankan staple that consists of spiced potatoes softened and fried with onions and chilli.

21 Kingly St, Soho, London W1B 5QA

kolamba.co.uk

Decimo

Slated to open on 10 October (see what they’ve done there?) Decimo is located on the tenth floor of King’s Cross’s shiny new The Standard, London, which launched in August. The chef is Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, who runs a duo of Michelin-starred restaurants in Bristol: Casamia and the more casual Paco Tapas. Decimo will take some of its culinary cues from the latter with a menu inspired by Spain and Mexico. Menu sections include aguachile (Mexican ceviche), tacos, salads, and meat and seafood cooked over open fire. Designed by Shawn Hausman, the space has a busy and eclectic 70s feel.

10 Argyle St, Kings Cross, London WC1H 8EG

decimo.london

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Stoney Street

Described as the ‘more refined, big sister to 26 Grains’, the Covent Garden restaurant opened by Alex Hely-Hutchinson in 2015, Stoney Street is an a new all-day restaurant serving ‘pared-back’ breakfast and lunch dishes. Named after its location, the Borough Market restaurant will be overseen in the kitchen by chef Henrietta Inman, with breakfast dishes on the launch menu to include milk crèpes with September plums, Neal’s Yard yoghurt and toasted nuts; and six grain and seed porridge with apples, blackberries, lemon cream, butterfly sorrel, and puffed barley; and lunch items including  warm chicory, pear and raclette salad with British raclette from neighbouring cheesemonger Kappacasein; and focaccia sandwich with anchovy hazelnut butter, wilted cavolo nero, Yorkshire pecorino, and land cress. Dinner, meanwhile, will include pollock with fennel, orange, olives and braised lentils; and bavette with Swiss chard, taleggio and slow-roasted shallots. The aesthetic is simple and stripped-back, with brushed concrete floors and lime-washed walls, with diners seated at one of the restaurant’s two counters or its window bar.

2-3 Stoney Street, London

Wild by Tart

The duo behind catering company Tart London, Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison, are finally set to open their first restaurant at Eccleston Yards in London’s Belgravia this month. Set within a 9,000sq ft multipurpose space that also contains a bar, deli, retail offering, events space and photography studio, Wild by Tart will be a neighbourhood-style restaurant serving ‘wholesome fare from a seasonally changing menu’. Jones and Carr-Ellison have focused the menu around small sharing plates, with dishes set to include pulled pheasant croquettes with harissa yoghurt; linguine with clams, ‘ndjua and cider; and smoked tomatoes served with burrata and basil oil.

3-4 Eccleston Yards, Belgravia, London SW1W 9AZ

wildbytart.com

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Le Comptoir Robuchon

The death of iconic chef Joël Robuchon last year was followed by the closure of his eponymous London restaurant in April, with rumours the concept was to be ‘reborn’ elsewhere in the capital. Now Joël Robuchon International is to open two restaurants honouring the legacy of the late chef. The first, Le Comptoir Robuchon, will launch on Clarges Street in Mayfair this month, offering an ‘evolved’ take on the small plates concept. Jeremy Page, who worked closely with Robuchon for 13 years at the original L’Atlerier de Joël Robuchon in Paris’ St Germain, will oversee the kitchen, with a menu split in to two sections. The first will showcase contemporary dishes such as La Saint Jacques with scallop, potatoes and sage; with the second focusing on a selection of Robuchon classis such was quail with foie gras and truffle. Le Deli Robuchon, an all day restaurant and patisserie, will open next month on Piccadilly.

6 Clarges St, Mayfair, London W1J 8AE

Wilder

The Boundary London hotel in Shoreditch is finally getting a new restaurant, with the backing of Sir Terence Conran. Wilder is described as contemporary British venue which will offer ‘elegant dishes and a relaxed dining experience’. Chef Richard McLellan, formerly of London’s Typing Room and Michelin-starred Alyn Williams at The Westbury, is heading up the kitchen, and selected ingredients will be sourced from Conran’s Barton Court country estate in Berkshire. Wilder will open in the site previously occupied by French chef Stephane Reynaud’s Tratra, which closed in 2018 and has since been used as an events space.

2-4 Boundary St, Hackney, London E2 7DD

boundary.london

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