Latest opening: Moncks of Dover St
What: A suitably plush and palatial European-style brassiere in the heart of Mayfair that sits, as you might have guessed, on Dover Street, which was once the site of the sprawling Clarendon House estate.
Who: The restaurant is being overseen by the team that operates high-end Chinese restaurant Park Chinois, which was originally the brainchild of Wagamama founder Alan Yau. Yau is no longer involved with Park Chinois, and will not play any role this new restaurant either. Instead, the kitchen will be overseen by executive chef Gennaro Vitto and head chef Valentino Pepe, who have worked alongside each other at Park Chinois for a number of years. Both chefs hail from the south of Italy, which perhaps explains the classic European focus of the menu.
The food: Positioning itself as ‘a new neighbourhood dining experience’ that’s suitable for any time of day – it’s open from early in the morning until midnight on weekdays, with times adjusted slightly at the weekends – Moncks has an all-day menu, as well as dedicated breakfast and brunch options; the latter of which combines elements of the other two menus, and is only available at the weekend. All menus feature an extensive list of premium dishes, with breakfast including a ‘signature’ truffled benedict of artichoke and black truffle served with poached eggs and hollandaise on an English muffin; a vegan take on the full English; and steak and eggs made with 35 day-aged sirloin, fried eggs, béarnaise sauce, alpine potatoes and dressed leaves. À la carte options, meanwhile, include Dover sole meunière that’s served off the bone with parsley, lemon juice and toasted almonds; steak tartare, which is available on its own as a starter or with rosemary chips as a main; and a classic Beef bourguignon of slow-cooked beef shoulder served with root vegetables and potato puree.
The vibe: As with Park Chinois, the emphasis at Moncks is on luxury, which can be seen in both the menu and the décor. The 92-cover restaurant has been designed by boutique firm Fettle (who are also behind The Marylebone Hotel and Chucs), and very much reflects the grandeur of a French-style brassiere with lavish, baroque features and rich mahogany colours.
And another thing: The inspiration behind the name comes from Christopher Monck, a 17th Century duke who was the final owner of the Clarendon House estate. Monck was a local legend, a politician, treasure hunter and innovator who played an important role the history of Mayfair. Moncks of Dover St says it aspires to be an important part of the neighbourhood, as he once was.
33 Dover St, Mayfair, London W1S 4NF
moncksbrasserie.com
