Latest opening: Kricket White City
What?
Indian small plates restaurant Kricket has opened its third permanent site. The new White City restaurant, the biggest yet for the group, is in the Television Centre development that was the headquarters of the BBC until 2013.
Who?
Kricket was founded by chef Will Bowlby and his business partner Rik Campbell in June 2015. The pair took over a 20-cover shipping container in the Pop Brixton development, and went on to open the first permanent restaurant in January 2017. The group is backed by the White Rabbit Growth Fund, a hospitality investment vehicle founded by Chris Miller.
The vibe
The site was initially billed as having the capacity for 140 covers, although at the moment the restaurant can seat 100. It features an open kitchen, a cocktail bar and an outdoor terrace and interiors have been designed by Run For The Hills, the design team which the group has worked on for its first two restaurants, cookbook and website. The site features neutral shades; cracked terracotta; black marble; crackle-glazing (mirroring the same effect used at the group’s Soho restaurant); and weathered polished plaster finishes, with antique brass details to provide a suitable backdrop for both daytime dining, and drinks in the evenings.
The food
Some of the dishes that have become known as Kricket signatures have made it to the menu at the new restaurant, including the samphire pakoras; Goan sausage croquettes; bhel puri; and Keralan fried chicken. New menu items exclusive to the site have also been added to the offer, and are in keeping with the restaurant’s concept of merging Indian flavours with decidedly British ingredients. New dishes include venison and aged beef fat kebab with greengage chutney, smoked raita and hazelnut; tandoori wood pigeon with smoked raita, garlic achaar, salli potatoes and pickled blackberries. A selection of new breads such as leek and potato bread; game keema naan with black vinegar and watercress; and chilli, garlic and Berkswell kulcha are all new additions to the menu, as is a side of hispi thoran, and a spiced apple chutney.
The drinks
Kricket’s other sites are known for their respectable cocktail menus, which provide a selection of ideal accompaniments to the meal of fairly spicy small plates. Favourites from the menus at the other sites such as the Dark Matter made with spiced run, mango, agave, pink peppercorn and green chilli have made it onto the menu at the new restaurant, alongside some new addition such as the aptly-named Colonel Mustard which comprises vodka, mustard seed, lemon and agave. The health-conscious diners will be pleased to learn that there is kombucha on the menu, alongside tamarind or fresh lime soda.
And another thing
The restaurant joins a line-up of key players on the London food scene at the new location. Other operators launching ventures at the Television Centre include D&D London’s Bluebird Café; Patty and Bun; and a new Soho House member’s club.
