Latest opening: Wright Brothers, Battersea
What: Seafood-specialist Wright Brothers has added a fifth restaurant to its portfolio, opening in the area around the iconic Battersea Power Station. The brand serves ultra-fresh seafood sourced from UK fisheries.
Who: Oyster-purveyors and seafood fanatic brothers-in-law Robin Hancock and Ben Wright opened their first Wright Brothers in 2005, in an attempt to make oysters available to everyone, and not just a dish to be “eaten by a select few in stuffy and formal restaurants”. The duo now run a burgeoning shellfish empire.
The vibe: The 150-cover restaurant is lively and the décor is classic, with an open style kitchen and marble counter displaying the oysters. The kitchen features a Josper charcoal oven, a first for the brand, cooking at a very high temperature that allows the kitchen to serve charred seafood dishes without sacrificing moisture. The restaurant also features a private dining room for up to 22 people, and a heated outdoor terrace with views over the River Thames and of the power station.
The food: The brand has built its reputation on high-quality sustainable seafood and shellfish, but the addition of the Josper grill allows for a more expansive menu than at some of its other sites. Alongside the classics such as fruits de mer; Isle of Lewis langoustines; and grilled prawns are options including half roasted chicken with bread sauce and fries; grilled Galician octopus with ajo blanco and smoked jalapeno chilli oil; and pumpkin, burratina and seaweed tartare. Oysters are still central to the restaurant’s identity, with regular masterclasses being hosted and the oysters themselves available from £1 each. A children’s menu is available, offering the likes of a mini shellfish platter of Atlantic prawns, St. Austell Bay mussels and Dorset crab for any children dextrous enough to tackle shell-on seafood. Cocktails pay homage to the location, with names like ‘Smoking Chimney’ (vodka, Tio Pepe Fino en Rama, apple and cinnamon shrub) and ‘The Mariner’ (vodka, elderflower cordial, lime cordial, cucumber juice, jalapeño, egg white and absinthe).
And another thing: The company has grown considerably from its early days, and now runs a large-scale oyster farm, a seafood merchant and the restaurant group. Last year, the brothers moved the wholesale business from Borough to Billingsgate, to boost national distribution and facilitate distribution outside the capital.
