Bone Daddies owner brings ‘Flesh and Buns’ to Covent Garden

Ross Shonhan, the man behind ramen restaurant Bone Daddies, is doubling up in London with the opening of Flesh and Buns – another Japanese concept, this time specializing in  ‘hirata’ steamed buns – in Covent Garden next month.

Situated in the Seven Dials area, the 140-cover subterranean restaurant is inspired by Japanese ‘izakayas’, roughly translated as a place for informal eating and drinking. The kitchen will be headed up by Joe McCafferty – runner up in the 2012 National Chef of the Year competition.

Shonhan, who opened Bone Daddies in Soho last November,claims his next venue will be the first in the capital to specialize in the hirata buns, which are Taiwanese in origin and consist of a folded bun usually filled with pork.

“I want to inject a bit of fun and humour into London's Japanese restaurants and love seeing people kick back, relax and enjoy some great food and drink that’s not too serious,” said the ex-Zuma head chef.

On the menu

While the steamed buns will be the main focus, Flesh and Buns will also showcase a variety of ‘flesh’ fillings including slow-roasted shoulder of lamb; whole baby chicken with yuzu koshu; and Robata grilled seabass with coriander miso. The flesh and buns will be served along with salad vegetables, sauces and pickles, with diners encouraged to build their own buns.

The menu at Flesh and Buns will be divided into four sections: ‘raw’ and ‘small plates’ followed by ‘flesh and buns’ and ‘desserts’. ‘Raw’ will be a choice of sashimi and oysters served with Japanese flavours whilst ‘small plates’ will include a selection of maki rolls and Japanese bar snacks.

Desserts include Kinako doughnuts with black sugar custard; Smores: matcha biscuits, chocolate and marshmallows; and Crispy banana with yuzu mojito sorbet.

The bar, situated at the back of the restaurant, will serve signature cocktails such as frozen yuzu margaritas; home-infused sakes, speciality beers, varied wines, Shochu and Japanese whiskeys. Restaurant manager is Steve Ham.

The interiors of the venue will embrace the building’s original features with brick walls painted red and white, and wooden, recycled furniture. 

Former employers

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Ross Shonhan wants to compete with his former employers Zuma and Nobu

Australian-born Shonhan first came to England 11 years ago with stints at Asia de Cuba and The Dorchester. When his visa expired, the chef moved to America and opened restaurants, including Nobu in Dallas. He was later headhunted to come back to England, taking charge of Zuma which was 14th in last year’s National Restaurant Awards.

Speaking of the current Japanese dining scene in the UK, he told BigHospitality: “In London, they are either very expensive, very serious, or not good quality.”

When it comes to future concepts, he added: “I‘ve got a lot of ideas. I do want to do a Japanese-inspired pub and I do want to do a higher end Japanese steakhouse, which would definitely be in competition with the likes of Zuma and Nobu and then has the legs to go international.”

Flesh and Buns opens at 41 Earlham Street, WC2H 9LX in mid-July.