A new study has found that the level of background noise affects our perception of the flavour and texture of food, a theory that some chefs – like Heston Blumenthal – have already taken to their diners.
The latest experiment was carried out by the research and development division of the packaged food giant Unilever in collaboration with researchers at Manchester University.
They found that higher levels of background noise made foods appear less sweet or salty, but more crunchy. At the same time, the more people liked the background noise, the more they seemed to like the food.
Heston’s sea sounds
This is a theory that Heston Blumenthal has already experimented with. In 2007, he introduced his Sound of the Sea concept at the Fat Duck in Bray.
This involved serving diners with a seaside-inspired dish, including a variety of shellfish and seaweeds together with a mixture of tapioca and breadcrumbs made to look like sand. A personal MP3 player played the sounds of the sea to diners with the aim of delivering a more intense culinary experience.
"We ate an oyster while listening to the sea and it tasted stronger and saltier", he explained.
Changing perception of food
The new study aimed to build on existing research into the effects of environmental factors on people’s perception of food.
“Our perception of food is driven not only by what we taste and smell, but by a variety of other factors including colour, expectation and cognitive strategy. Sounds… also contribute to food perception,” write the authors in the July edition of the journal Food Quality and Preference.
The controlled experiment involved around 80 students from Manchester University, who were blindfolded and given headphones playing quiet, loud or no background noise.
They were given different types of prepared packaged foods and asked to rate sweetness, saltiness, crunchiness, and overall liking.
In sweet and salty ratings, the food was reported to taste less intense in the noisy condition. The crunchy ratings showed that foods eaten in loud conditions were found to be crunchier.
In addition, the researchers found there was a link between how much people liked the background noise and how much they liked the foods they were tasting.
The sound of wine
Previous research carried out for the Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes found that certain sounds can enhance the way that wine tastes. The results, said the researchers, were based on the ‘cognitive priming theory’, where music sets up the brain to respond to the wine in a certain way.
This same theory was demonstrated earlier this week at the Restaurant Show by Mickey Narea, the head sommelier at Launceston Place.
“My theory is that you take all atmospheric elements and create a synergy. So that means you look at the atmosphere, the mood of the place and the table, the occasion and individual tastes,” he said, adding that music was a key element in enhancing our experience of wine.