Andy Bond, Asda’s chief executive has launched a scathing attack on celebrity chefs that ‘preach’ to consumers about what food choices they should make, claiming consumers would rather pay less for value food than fork out for quality, ethical food.
In his role as guest editor of The Grocer magazine last month, Bond articulated his anger at TV chefs Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall who have recently urged consumers to spend more on higher-welfare meat. Claiming consumers are ‘worse off compared with a year ago,’ Bond wrote that the chefs should face reality and listen to what the British public want.
“It sticks in my throat a little when celebrity chefs preach to TV viewers about how they should spend their hard-earned money,” he wrote, claiming the chefs’ shows Jamie Saves Our Bacon and Chicken, Hugh and Tesco Too, were more about ‘drama and theatre’ than ‘well researched, well-presented facts.’
“Was I the only one who thought Hugh was patronising to the single mum who he wanted to pay more for higher-welfare chicken?” he continued. “I’d like to see the reception Hugh got if he joined me on an accompanied shop or customer listening group – not on camera so it turns into a pantomime – so he can get closer to the challenges real people face on a daily basis.
While consumers are reducing their spend in the supermarket, a recent Quickbite survey by market analysts Horizons, showed a third of British diners were willing to spend more on quality food when eating out, although planned to eat out less often. Managing director Peter Backman said: “We are seeing a flight to quality with people eating out less but spending more, demonstrating this new ‘save-it for something special’ approach.”
The British Hospitality Association has also urged restaurants to be ‘very careful’ when putting ethically produced items on their menus so as not to alienate potential diners.
A spokesperson for the BHA, said: “Restaurants have to be sure of the needs of their clientele, because using organic and ethical food are likely to increase menu prices. If that`s what they want, fine. But the whole catering industry - not just celebrity chefs - needs to be very careful about trying to change people`s eating habits. We`ve experienced problems with reducing salt levels in manufactured foods - if it`s done too quickly, people won`t buy. Change has to be gradual. You can`t dictate to the public what they buy and what they eat. Consumers have to be encouraged, cajoled, tempted. That`s the only way.”
What do you think? Are celebrity chefs right to put pressure on consumers to buy quality food both in restaurants and supermarkets or are they just patronising towards the budget-conscious customer? Give us your thoughts by adding a comment below.